The Official Extinct Inline Thermostat Mod Thread
PM me if you don't mind, I'm in Monterey!
In my opinion, yes. The radiator is supposed to affect maximum cooling capacity/temperature. The manufacturers size radiators based on a theoretical maximum load at a maximum ambient temperature. The thermostat is supposed to control the minimum engine temperature. However the issue on the D2 is that the factory thermostat design is incredibly unreliable and on top of that it has a bypass system so that there are two modes of failure - complete and partial. Complete is actually easy, truck won't make it around the block without overheating. I have bought probably half a dozen in that condition. Partial is harder to diagnose, the truck runs hotter than it should because the bypass valve does not close all the way and allows some portion of the coolant to bypass the radiator. Owner runs around changing radiator, water pump, thermostat, etc. never quite sure what the problem is. Inline thermostat is more reliable relative to factory design for complete failure and there is no bypass valve so the partial failure is eliminated. I still have two brand new factory thermostats I am willing to send to anyone willing to pay shipping.
Not true, the D2 ECU puts the engine in closed loop fueling mode less than a minute after startup at which point the oxygen sensors control the fuel mixture at an average of 14.7:1. You can see this clearly in this video: https://youtu.be/UNzi30G2_Kk?si=HFK43BGLacG3kQpo
I did not realize 60w was even available, that is probably some of your fuel mileage issue. Anyway most people running the inline report much more consistent temps, typical between 183-190.
That is what the factory throttle body heater is for. At 20 below there is probably some risk of that happening, you might want to keep the throttlebody heater.
Not true, the D2 ECU puts the engine in closed loop fueling mode less than a minute after startup at which point the oxygen sensors control the fuel mixture at an average of 14.7:1. You can see this clearly in this video: https://youtu.be/UNzi30G2_Kk?si=HFK43BGLacG3kQpo
I did not realize 60w was even available, that is probably some of your fuel mileage issue. Anyway most people running the inline report much more consistent temps, typical between 183-190.
That is what the factory throttle body heater is for. At 20 below there is probably some risk of that happening, you might want to keep the throttlebody heater.
Thank you for answering my questions in detail. I got aluminum T 3 way and glass connectors for the coolant. Can't find a shroud. Rad is too big. Can I keep the aluminum and glass connectors with the inline ?
I'm also looking at buying this... can it work with the inline ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18624608267...Bk9SR_zJjrmNZA
The upper hose tee is not used with the inline. The silicone hose kit you linked to does not used a plastic nor aluminum wye fitting at the bottom. You might want to check out this blog post as well: https://extinctmotorsports.com/the-e...s-10-min-read/
I get this code occasionally, the error is engine temp is too low. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, it does take a long time to warm up. what is the highest temp thermostat that people recommend, for the winter anyway, I can change it back to the 190, or lower, in the summer.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
I started running a 190 in my inline mid last winter because I was tired of the 0126 codes as well. I figured I would go back to a 180 stat come summer, but never did and didn’t have any trouble with it either. Things stay right around 188-190 most days, whether it’s hot or cold out.
I have this one installed, I assume the 190 is 190 degrees, any chance it could be defective? stuck open? Is It worth getting another one or different brand?


