Another good oil is Rotella 15w/40. This is an excellent diesel oil which I read is very good for out tappet engines. The oil is cheap and keeps everything clean. 5k intervals are fine.

 

So you paid 2-3 times the price of a NAPA Gold or Wix filter for a nut on the end of the filter.
I change mine every 3,000 miles and lube my propshafts at the same time. You can probably get by with every 5,000.

People will believe anything
However, the larger filter does provide more oil capacity and will take longer to open the bypass valve if you happen to have gunk in your engine.

 

Both the 51515 and the 51068 have the same bypass pressure setting. Even if it were true If your engine is that dirty the extra 1.5 seconds for your filter to go into bypass is a moot point. I'm not sure if the 301 contains a higher surface area of media or not and I'm not willing to cut either new filters open. Whether or not you will see a benefit from the extra surface are in a larger filter (if there is indeed more SA) as in a normal engine it would take years for a filter of this size to go into bypass.

 

I am about to start a new OCI on my disco (just got it). I want to go synthetic (i used to run M1 in my vr6 jetta), but I don't want it to leak. I hear people say that you will notice it leaking. Is this a permanent thing? How long does it last? If it isn't too bad I was thinking M1 TdT 5W-40 (zinc: 1200ppm, phos: 1100ppm) which seem like pretty good numbers. I am not too savvy with the oil weight ratings (I live in western new york), is a 5W-40 a good wt? Also, I could do the M1 HM 10W-40 (but the z is only 1000 and phos only 900).
If the switch to syn seems like too much trouble, which is a good conventional? Rotella T I hear has a good additive package, but then I read some places that they lowered their additives (but it is the same name product so tough to find good info online).

I like the idea of running M1 (syn, for cleaning as this truck has 82k), but don't want a headache. Does the M1 HM seal conditioner help for my concerns?

Thanks, Kevin


PS here is the mobil 1 chart, their 15-50 has z: 1300 p: 1200- that seems good! Dont' know about the weight though...
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...duct_Guide.pdf

 

When I bought my truck (152k) I switched it over to Mobil 1 15w-50 changing it every 5,000 miles.
It leaked like a col-lender, for the first oil change, then it slowly stopped leaking.
I stayed with the Mobil 1 15w-50 for the summers and used Mobil 1 5w-30 for the winter. It took 6? months for it to stop leaking.
I have since switched to Shell Rotella and am staying with the 5,000 mile oil changes and she still does not leak.

I am currently running Rotella HD-30 and am going to switch to 5w40 for the winter.

So go ahead and use the Mobil 1, she may leak, she may not, but if she does she will stop leaking after awhile.

 

I didn't mean the bypass setting was different.
I'm not saying there's a huge safety factor in the additional media, but there is a little.

 

with the m1 - 301 filter, how much oil does it use on a drain and refil. My manual says that it takes 6.6 qt with oil cooler and 6.1 qt without. I guess my first question is, how do I know if I have an oil cooler? Then, with the 301, how much oil are you guys using?

 

I have an oil cooler and I get 6 quarts out and put quarts in with the 301. The filter does not add that much volume maybe 4 or 5 ounces.

 

Has anyone ever cut open and compared with a factory filter? I wonder how those compare with the after market ones. I have never seen one in those online comparisons, not that I would expect it to be. It is probably just a rebranded one anyways. I think a factory one is only like $6.

 

In the grand scheme of things oil filters are not that important and as long as you change them regularly you can even get by with an orange can (= near total cardboard construction on the inside). There have been many filters cut open I don't know who make the factory filters though but I would suspect a good aftermarket filter to be constructed equal or better. In general Wix, Napa Gold, Champion Labs (K&N, Mobil 1), Pure One are all top notch with silicone anti drain back valve and a bypass valve on the top of the can. I don't really pay much even for mobil 1 filters as they are more or less free with the oil changes specials at Autozone or Advanced. If I have to buy a filter I go buy a Napa Gold for $6 or whatever. I don't have Wix branded filters around here or I would buy them.