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Oil Pump and Timing Chain Replacement Write Up

Old Aug 18, 2018 | 01:58 PM
  #41  
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Three Wheeling
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From: Little River, SC
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Now I'm having trouble rotating the oil pump by hand. Any tips?

Figured it out. I put the bolt back in the crank, and turned it to match my oil pump.
 

Last edited by duscarter; Aug 19, 2018 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 09:50 AM
  #42  
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Winching
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From: Home of the Buckeyes
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Did I miss the part about removing the oil cooler lines from the front cover before unbolting it? Both nuts and lines are pretty rusted at the bolt on mine. Drenched them with PB last night to tackle later tonight.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 10:31 AM
  #43  
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From: Little River, SC
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I had to remove mine. One was accessible from up top, the other from the bottom. They still got in the way.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #44  
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03 and 04 didn't get the oil lines, so that part is missing. Glad this was helpful for you!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #45  
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Default D1 same process?

For a Disco 1, I'm assuming it's the same process?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 12:48 PM
  #46  
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I don't have any experience with the D1, but I know the process will be different. There will be a lot of similarities, but the front cover is different, cam is different, that leads me to believe the oil pump and timing set will be somewhat different.

You should be able to use this as somewhat of a guide, but it will not be 1:1
 
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Old Nov 29, 2019 | 06:19 PM
  #47  
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From: Athol, Massachusetts
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This was very helpful, even on my D1. Boy did a new timing chain set make the motor a lot quieter. I was shocked at how smooth and quiet the motor is now. My truck has 200,650 miles and I don't think these had ever been replace. Even the oil pump cover wasn't worn and the oil light went out immediately upon cranking over the engine.

My additional D1 techniques:

- Tie the lower radiator hose out of the way.
- Dry fit the front cover without the gasket and RTV so you don't mess them up as you are trying to line up the dowel pins and the oil pump. Once you know everything lines up then put the gasket and RTV on.
- On the D1s there is a notch in the bellhousing that lets you put a 13mm wrench in the slot and on one of the bolt heads to lock everything in place as you loosen or tighten the crank bolt. Of note, I did have to grind down the handle of the wrench so it would fit into the slot.
- The oil pan on the D1s comes out easily if you drop the frame mounted sway bar mounts.
- Not sure if I had to, but I used thread locker on the oil pump cover plate screws.


 
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 05:32 PM
  #48  
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Thank you sooo much for taking the time to do this write up. It help me a lot!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2023 | 05:41 PM
  #49  
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I had to haul in a wheel barrow of dirt to clean up coolant.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 07:37 PM
  #50  
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I know this is an old thread....But is everyone removing the crossmember to get the oil pan out of a D2? I cannot finagle the thing out of there.
 
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