Overheating 2001 discovery ii !!!
#12
#13
I'd dump the coolant, flush, and refill with new. I've never trusted Stop Leak, it has a poor reputation for clogging areas that shouldn't be clogged, if left inside the engine. If you've nabbed your small leak, I'd get the residual out of your system.
This would allow you to fill the system properly. I had the "waterfall behind the radiator" symptom when I first bought me rover, but when I changed the T-stat, I simply refilled the system by having the front wheels on bricks (slight incline) with the bleed screw OPEN, and filled the system until the coolant slightly came out of the bleed screw.
This worked for me as well as raising the overflow tank. I haven't had an issue since, although I occasionally check the bleed screw after a long drive (still pressurized). I think I had a spattering of air out the first time (since I didn't raise the overflow), but nothing but coolant since.
This would allow you to fill the system properly. I had the "waterfall behind the radiator" symptom when I first bought me rover, but when I changed the T-stat, I simply refilled the system by having the front wheels on bricks (slight incline) with the bleed screw OPEN, and filled the system until the coolant slightly came out of the bleed screw.
This worked for me as well as raising the overflow tank. I haven't had an issue since, although I occasionally check the bleed screw after a long drive (still pressurized). I think I had a spattering of air out the first time (since I didn't raise the overflow), but nothing but coolant since.
#14
#15
wont I break the expansion hose to the radiator if I raise the reservoir that high? What about the hoses hooked to it?
#16
Just be careful when raising the tank and you should be ok. You just need to get it higher than the bleed screw basically.
Also, do this when the engine is OFF and COLD. Then after you close the bleeder screw and replace the overflow tank to its holster and top it up again you can start it.
Also, do this when the engine is OFF and COLD. Then after you close the bleeder screw and replace the overflow tank to its holster and top it up again you can start it.
#17
Are you monitoring your temps with anything other than the dash gauge? Which is pretty useless.
I'm not sure of the cheapest way to get a real time accurate figure. Popular way is with ultra gauge.
Once you definitely have the system properly bled you really need to know what the actual temps are. Mine are 194-197 most of the time.
If you can find what the temp rises to when the "temp gauge moves up a little" it will be better to diagnose and advise.
I'm not sure of the cheapest way to get a real time accurate figure. Popular way is with ultra gauge.
Once you definitely have the system properly bled you really need to know what the actual temps are. Mine are 194-197 most of the time.
If you can find what the temp rises to when the "temp gauge moves up a little" it will be better to diagnose and advise.
#19
#20
cheap temp
Are you monitoring your temps with anything other than the dash gauge? Which is pretty useless.
I'm not sure of the cheapest way to get a real time accurate figure. Popular way is with ultra gauge.
Once you definitely have the system properly bled you really need to know what the actual temps are. Mine are 194-197 most of the time.
If you can find what the temp rises to when the "temp gauge moves up a little" it will be better to diagnose and advise.
I'm not sure of the cheapest way to get a real time accurate figure. Popular way is with ultra gauge.
Once you definitely have the system properly bled you really need to know what the actual temps are. Mine are 194-197 most of the time.
If you can find what the temp rises to when the "temp gauge moves up a little" it will be better to diagnose and advise.
I have used the Elm 327 bluetooth unit for codes and temps. its <$20 and works well enough.
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