My heat is not hot enough. I think I need to bleed out more air. I don't know how to do it when the coolant is full

 

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With front on incline, remove reservoir from its holster(pull and slide), fix it as high as possible(bungee to the hood), open reservoir cap, open bleed screw........let it push out the air

 

I'd dump the coolant, flush, and refill with new. I've never trusted Stop Leak, it has a poor reputation for clogging areas that shouldn't be clogged, if left inside the engine. If you've nabbed your small leak, I'd get the residual out of your system.


This would allow you to fill the system properly. I had the "waterfall behind the radiator" symptom when I first bought me rover, but when I changed the T-stat, I simply refilled the system by having the front wheels on bricks (slight incline) with the bleed screw OPEN, and filled the system until the coolant slightly came out of the bleed screw.


This worked for me as well as raising the overflow tank. I haven't had an issue since, although I occasionally check the bleed screw after a long drive (still pressurized). I think I had a spattering of air out the first time (since I didn't raise the overflow), but nothing but coolant since.

 

My coolant is full but I hear a little water moving in the dash. Temp gauge moves up a little when I first start driving and goes back to normal . How can I bleed air when the system is full?

 

wont I break the expansion hose to the radiator if I raise the reservoir that high? What about the hoses hooked to it?

 

Just be careful when raising the tank and you should be ok. You just need to get it higher than the bleed screw basically.

Also, do this when the engine is OFF and COLD. Then after you close the bleeder screw and replace the overflow tank to its holster and top it up again you can start it.

 

Are you monitoring your temps with anything other than the dash gauge? Which is pretty useless.

I'm not sure of the cheapest way to get a real time accurate figure. Popular way is with ultra gauge.

Once you definitely have the system properly bled you really need to know what the actual temps are. Mine are 194-197 most of the time.

If you can find what the temp rises to when the "temp gauge moves up a little" it will be better to diagnose and advise.

 

The temp gauge is in truth a three position indicator:

"Cold" at the bottom, "Operating Temp" in the middle and "Oh ****!" at the top.

 

do not close the bleeder at the first signs of coolant, let it run for a minute or two

 

I have used the Elm 327 bluetooth unit for codes and temps. its <$20 and works well enough.