Please help rear driveline removal
I had a slight vibration so I started checking around and found that all 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the emergency brake drum were just flopping around.
Could not remove the nuts because they were all just spinning.
Why hasn't anyone posted this same problem. I have looked through all the threads.
after cutting off the nuts I removed the driveline and drum to find I now cannot get the studs out so I can replace them.
All 4 are just spinning and look as if they were never pressed in or secured in any way. Or maybe they just vibrated loose and can't be replaced because now the holes are to big (maybe).
Question 1
Are they supposed to be pressed in like wheel studs?
easily replaceable?
There is a C clamp ring behind the studs that won't allow them to be removed from the back and now looks like I have to take off the center nut and take off the whole flange just to be replaced. And it looks like that C clamp is only there just for that purpose. What butt head engineer thought of that?
How much further am I going to have to keep taking this apart just to replace the studs that secure the driveline. Seals?
Will I have to use a puller to remove the flange?
Any advice at this point would be very helpfull
I have a 1995 discovery with automatic trans
Could not remove the nuts because they were all just spinning.
Why hasn't anyone posted this same problem. I have looked through all the threads.
after cutting off the nuts I removed the driveline and drum to find I now cannot get the studs out so I can replace them.
All 4 are just spinning and look as if they were never pressed in or secured in any way. Or maybe they just vibrated loose and can't be replaced because now the holes are to big (maybe).
Question 1
Are they supposed to be pressed in like wheel studs?
easily replaceable?
There is a C clamp ring behind the studs that won't allow them to be removed from the back and now looks like I have to take off the center nut and take off the whole flange just to be replaced. And it looks like that C clamp is only there just for that purpose. What butt head engineer thought of that?
How much further am I going to have to keep taking this apart just to replace the studs that secure the driveline. Seals?
Will I have to use a puller to remove the flange?
Any advice at this point would be very helpfull
I have a 1995 discovery with automatic trans
They are not studs, they are just standard bolts that "should not" rotate at all as the head of the bolts hits the side of the prop flange, they feel "loose" but wont rotate. The "c" clip is there purely to stop the bolts falling out backwards and to make sure they are held in position when fitting the drive shaft.
Are you 100% sure the bolts fully rotated when undoing the nuts for the propshaft ?
I replaced both the nuts and the bolts when I had the flange off to replace the transfer box oil seal. details below "may" help you out.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/rear_output_seal.html
Are you 100% sure the bolts fully rotated when undoing the nuts for the propshaft ?
I replaced both the nuts and the bolts when I had the flange off to replace the transfer box oil seal. details below "may" help you out.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/rear_output_seal.html
Yea it did help panzer
Thank you very much.
The link with the pictures are worth 1 million dollars to someone who can't make it to the nearest land rover dealer
Thanks again and this is what I ended up with:
Please view the pictures panzer put up
Rear driveshaft removal
Rear transfer case flange bolts or stud removal for the output flange Landrover Discovery 1995 automatic LT230T transfer case.
The bolts that hold the rear drive shaft are just bolts. they are not special strength bolts other than get grade 8 bolts from home depot or any hardware store. They are 3/8 X 1.5 Grade 8. If you are having a slight vibrations at 70mph then it's time to check these and your rubber piece at the rear differential.
Chuck off your wheels so you Rover cannot roll ontop of you and parking brake off.
I made the mistake of checking it just after I put it in park and that leaves the driveshaft bound up and tight so when you tug the driveshaft will feel secure.
After I put it in neutral,
then I jumped under there and grabbed the rear driveshaft right at the Ujoint near the Emergency brake drum and sure enough not only did the shaft move but I could see the bolts into the Emergency brake drum were moving.
These bolts are not pressed in or secure nor are they supposed to be.
With them snug down maybe they are supposed to (KINDA) be secure by the side of the spindal but only when they are almost taught. Mine were all rounded off.
I don't know why landrover did this but I do know it was lame.
How are you supposed to tighten them if they do come loose from vibration? because of the rust after 6 months or so you don't.
They are really easy to use a dremmel and just cut off the nuts. it goes really fast. Just make sure you do not cut into the driveshaft or it could mess with you balance or strength of it.
Once the nuts are off you can remove the driveshaft (remember to leave the rubber ON THE SHAFT( landrovers orders) unless you are planning to replace it)
Then remove the emergency brake drum.
that will expose the bolts for the driveline but you still cannot remove them at this point.
You need a 30mm socket to take off flange that holds the bolts and brake drum.
You will not need a puller to pull off that flange once the 30mm nut is off.
Take off the flange holding the bolts for the driveshaft by wiggling it in and out and also pry with a srewdriver just be careful. Once it's off,
you will notice a snap ring. this snap ring keeps the bolts from falling inside if the bolts break.
Your normal ordinary snap ring pliers are not big enough to move this snap ring.
After searching everywhere for one big enough i just resorted to using a pic and slide the snap ring all the way to the back. it doesn't need to come off.
The snap ring is split.
Just turn the open end of the snap ring around to each bolt to remove and replace with the grade 8 3/8 X 1.5 bolt.
Replace your oil seals on the transfer box while you are there.
Button everything back up and you are ready to go!!!!
And remember, since you did it yourself, don't forget to send the landrover dealership $30.00 because they are going to need something to eat when they can't charge you $750 for this procedure.
Thanks very much panzer
My Land Rover is now been tested and found to be vibration free again.
Thank you very much.
The link with the pictures are worth 1 million dollars to someone who can't make it to the nearest land rover dealer
Thanks again and this is what I ended up with:
Please view the pictures panzer put up
Rear driveshaft removal
Rear transfer case flange bolts or stud removal for the output flange Landrover Discovery 1995 automatic LT230T transfer case.
The bolts that hold the rear drive shaft are just bolts. they are not special strength bolts other than get grade 8 bolts from home depot or any hardware store. They are 3/8 X 1.5 Grade 8. If you are having a slight vibrations at 70mph then it's time to check these and your rubber piece at the rear differential.
Chuck off your wheels so you Rover cannot roll ontop of you and parking brake off.
I made the mistake of checking it just after I put it in park and that leaves the driveshaft bound up and tight so when you tug the driveshaft will feel secure.
After I put it in neutral,
then I jumped under there and grabbed the rear driveshaft right at the Ujoint near the Emergency brake drum and sure enough not only did the shaft move but I could see the bolts into the Emergency brake drum were moving.
These bolts are not pressed in or secure nor are they supposed to be.
With them snug down maybe they are supposed to (KINDA) be secure by the side of the spindal but only when they are almost taught. Mine were all rounded off.
I don't know why landrover did this but I do know it was lame.
How are you supposed to tighten them if they do come loose from vibration? because of the rust after 6 months or so you don't.
They are really easy to use a dremmel and just cut off the nuts. it goes really fast. Just make sure you do not cut into the driveshaft or it could mess with you balance or strength of it.
Once the nuts are off you can remove the driveshaft (remember to leave the rubber ON THE SHAFT( landrovers orders) unless you are planning to replace it)
Then remove the emergency brake drum.
that will expose the bolts for the driveline but you still cannot remove them at this point.
You need a 30mm socket to take off flange that holds the bolts and brake drum.
You will not need a puller to pull off that flange once the 30mm nut is off.
Take off the flange holding the bolts for the driveshaft by wiggling it in and out and also pry with a srewdriver just be careful. Once it's off,
you will notice a snap ring. this snap ring keeps the bolts from falling inside if the bolts break.
Your normal ordinary snap ring pliers are not big enough to move this snap ring.
After searching everywhere for one big enough i just resorted to using a pic and slide the snap ring all the way to the back. it doesn't need to come off.
The snap ring is split.
Just turn the open end of the snap ring around to each bolt to remove and replace with the grade 8 3/8 X 1.5 bolt.
Replace your oil seals on the transfer box while you are there.
Button everything back up and you are ready to go!!!!
And remember, since you did it yourself, don't forget to send the landrover dealership $30.00 because they are going to need something to eat when they can't charge you $750 for this procedure.
Thanks very much panzer
My Land Rover is now been tested and found to be vibration free again.
That was just what I needed. Two bolts would not come off so we could not free the drum. They were turning, slipping the head, so we couldnt apply any pressure. We had to cut them off. On the other side we'll remove the circlip and replace with new bolts and nuts. This write up was a huge help. Thanks.
panzer does this apply to all rovers guy working on mine was scared of hand brake drum i will print off this step by step and give to him so he can change my ujoints on rear drive shaft i should probly replace the flex joint to
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Disco_Drew
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Jul 27, 2007 05:20 AM




