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Poor connection at battery terminals...

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Old Dec 17, 2025 | 08:35 PM
  #11  
Best4x4's Avatar
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05-09 LR3/RRS have the same setup on the battery terminals. I grab em for spares every time I seen an LR3/RRS at the junk yard.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2025 | 10:39 PM
  #12  
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Default My mechanic did this today

Originally Posted by Externet
Hi.
Had to perform minor surgery to the factory terminals. They did not grab the battery posts firmly enough causing failure to start and perhaps poor charging.
Increased the gap that allows each terminal half to grip when the nut is tightened by sawing-in and filing about 1 mm. Seems a good action to perform.

Image borrowed from the web to show the gap:

Its conical nut design seems proper and does a good job grabbing the terminal, but decades seem to stretch it limiting how tight can it be.
He used a thin hacksaw to increase the gap. I immediately noticed that the engine turns over instantly now, and the throttle response seems quicker too.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2025 | 05:31 PM
  #13  
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Yes, spacer caps (shims) are available to put on the battery posts, but I once upon a time, many years ago, simply shimmed the terminal clamps with a toothpick. It was still plenty of good contact. I later used a pair of Vise Grips to simply squeeze down the clamps so there was good contact. I also replaced the bolts, I recall, but that was many, many years ago.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2025 | 01:48 PM
  #14  
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From: StL, MO
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after chasing electrical issues a few years back, i finally traced them back to the OE battery cable clamps. after messing with them a bit, i switched to the "military style" clamps. haven't had any issues since. if i recall, i also added in my winch wiring at that time.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 07:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Externet
Thanks.
Did it again today to my other Disco; got excellent grab terminal-to-post after removing ~1mm meat off the terminal gap surfaces. Misunderstandings aside, eliminated the poor contact at tight nut-in. The terminals held with a vise-grip, first a hacksaw all the way into the gap, then pry open a bit the gap to fit a thin file. Am happy. Flashing M and S dissappeared.

This gap ~tripled in width by removing material, prevents the halves to hit each other before the nut can do a tight squeeze
This gap ~tripled in width by removing material, prevents the halves to hit each other before the nut can do a tight 'squeeze'
I did this today. Solved the problem. Great explanation.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 11:25 PM
  #16  
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didn't in the old days they just shim with a little copper to get a better connection ?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 07:54 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by disco96sd
didn't in the old days they just shim with a little copper to get a better connection ?
That solution was definitely on my list but Externet had a much better solution. I had already purchased a copper union that I was going to slit and apply,,, but compared to this? It would have been a kludge. I am so glad I went this route.
I believe that as time passes more and more people will experience this problem. As I happily tightened the nut I realized the cause was most likely the deformation caused by over tightening during the previous years.
So while a shim would definitely have worked... I think all would agree this is the route to take.
 
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