If I had 500$ for a snorkle I would..

Im not making a snorkle that looks like crap.. This you cant see.

And it lowers the temperature by 20-40* Not to mention MUCH quicker.

 

What temperature is it lowering?

 

intake air temperature

 

The vehicle is much quicker, or the air temperature drop is much quicker?

/hopefully end confusion

 

the air temperature drop is much quicker.

 

Darn. I hoping for the other. I thought maybe your idea had turned your Disco into something that would do the 1/4 mile in under a minute.

 

How is that Poor Man's Straw working out for ya.... err.. I mean lower end snorkel? Have you contracted it out to the local city gov't as a street vacuum? Sorry Spence, I couldn't help it... all in good fun.

Any recent mods to this intake set up? Still running it?

I had an idea for you to reduce your intake temps. Reduce the size of the inlet hose to the plenum warming lines. If you can reduce that hot coolant flow through the intake you could lower temps without completely eliminating the "de-icing" effect of the system. Just a little thought.

 

Some of these threads are so damned amusing and mostly its the banter back and forth. good on you for putting an idea out there and actually doing the work to check the empirical evidence instead of just assuming a benefit... I do agree it's worth a temporary set up to test out a theory before big time modifications are made (such as a 4" chuck of sewer pipe angling out of the hood (haha) I don't much like the looks of the snorkels either and honestly, I am one who would benefit from it having to drive up and down a dirt (read that to be dust) road every day to and from home. 800' climb up in 1/8 mile ay it's slow going with a car in front and ya gotta move the vents to recirculation to keep from choking out during the summer. I mention it cause I see snorkels on trucks that clearly haven't any more need for it than a ground effects kit on a geo metro..... Still, I have wondered on a better way and hadn't thought about the cold air side of things. (figure if I am in deep enough to worry bout water getting in my motor, I'm already screwed cause the glorious electrical system on these will without much doubt shut things down pronto and so oh well)
So, to add to the "ideas" on the subject, I have gone through the entire intake side of things, cleaned up slag and opened up intake runners, smoothed but not polished and opened and matched the runners to heads after porting and polishing same. Opened exhaust outlets on the heads while accessible (in preparation for headers) Will still have to match everything including gaskets when I get there. Lots of info on various sites both buick 215 and rover performance sites allowed me the courage to really remove some material. The crap in the casting is really horrible on both the intake runners and the heads, though honestly, I think it's far less of an issue in terms of output. I did lots of research on the injectors and those stockers on the 4.6 Bosch are ample for anything we do to this motor naturally aspirated. The ECU remapping is the big key after other normal mods and that requires a solder job and chip. Expect $500 or so hit and ECU shipped out. Lots of this happening in UK and it's very promising in terms of squeezing out more from this power plant. Alternatively, a donor ECU can be sent but unless you have the software to reprogram the security interface, it's a no starter. (I have rovacom and understand that will reprogram. The motor is all reworked and I am assembling the 4.8 (yep, no typo) top hatted bugger now. The old 4.6 is going to be top hatted and more mild, probably sit around the shop for a bit and may make it's way into my classic though it's got 160K on it's original 3.9 and gives me no headaches whatsoever so I think it'll probably just end up in the next Disco 2 that gets dragged in by the short hairs with a puked liner. I digress.... The exhaust is changed only at this point by the after market setup after Y pipe. It did NOTHING to improve things on that end, other than drone on at low rpm range. So I think it's time to fuss with headers and do some unmentionables to the cats... :0 Think now is great while this motor is out of the way. at any rate, back to the intake. It was also a real eye opener when i pushed the fiber optic camera neck down the lower intake while strapped to the motor. The before and after view was a trip.. What effect it made on the overall performance is unknown as I did lots of mods at once but I DID squeal like a little school girl the first few days of driving her... So, on this inlet for the air... The disco 2 is pulling the air from between the fender skins so I assume it's reasonably cool compared to the engine bay. I didn't spend much time looking, assume it's flow from around there but with the headlight design and grill area having all air directed through radiator, I am not clear on just how good an air sample is coming in (with regards to cool or clean) When last i had the finisher panel off the a pillar to run some wiring I noted its got a pretty decent void behind it... That would seem a great area to incorporate to some sort of "snorkel" and get that clean, cooler air with the benefit of more potential velocity at speed while at the same time keeping the modification on the low down..... Throwing it out there, seeing if it'll stick... The same principle is used on a lot of these so called "performance enhancers" that cost $49 and promise the moon. Many just tap into IAT sensor and by resistance alter the temp that the computer sees and thus changes fueling. The component missing is the actual denser air which would just make it happier in the combustion end of things. So everything this guy did with the "Maytag performance hot rod ducting" is on par with getting the desired result complete with evidence to same. (now I cant wait to hear about the little kitten that finds it's way through the combustion process if ya don't screen it at a minimum... At any rate, anything to make these things go a bit faster and better is good news to me... Now, on the subject of air filters...... I have worked as a mechanic professionally for 20 years solid, been in the business since I was a pimply teenager... I really can't get behind the idea that the K&N filters and the other oiled cleanable filters are the bad idea that I keep reading about particularly on this site. Let me complete the thought before Mike freaks out... (just kidding) I have seen K/N on many applications running through the shop over the years. When there IS an issue of a failed MAF sensor due to contamination, it's almost always without exception because said owner OR some really ambitious tech cleaned the filter well before it was due and then thought "hmm, a little oil is good, three coats till dripping MUST be better!) Or they used compressed air and blew the crap out of it and then oiled both sides..... (result is ruined filter media and the oil is to trap and collect crap thats flowing INTO filter so putting it on the backside is just asking the induction of fast flowing air to deposit said oil on MAF sensor) I've never had a problem with one, haven't seen any negatives at all. In my case it's paid for itself several times over. Add to that this observation.... I have replaced more MAF sensors on these vehicles and on Porsches and VW's (that use almost identical MAF sensors in many applications) and NONE had oiled filters. What most had in common was a loose upstream clamp, damaged box or crappy filter.. More had recently had the filters changed at some quick lube place and clearly they needed changing by the mess still in the air box, but more importantly, the tech could have taken a little more care not to get that dust and dirt on the new filter, most importantly on the inboard side of same. Lastly, more and more i see filters not seated properly, pushed in on one corner so effectively the engine is sucking unfiltered air.... NO MAF sensor is going to tolerate that.... Especially not these as they are sensitive as heck. Fords, well, those are clean and recheck, a speck of dust will toss all numbers out of the park... Bosch is not to be cleaned... If it worked for you, ya got really lucky IMHO....

Last bit... There is no "home run" one off thing that will blow the doors off anything.... Even stage one nitrous will find the weakest part of your motor and send it into the firewall... It's a balance of many different modifications and of course your budget.... there are a ton of things to be done to these motors while the top end is off and depending on your skill set, not a lot of money out of pocket. All things need to work in concert to get the desired result... The engineers at land rover (you can pick em out of a crowd as they ALL have big mouse ears on) did pick over this motor and its control systems with as much vigor as we ever will looking to eek out any more power and economy they could. The problem is much like anything else, competing and conflicting interests.... Too many benchmarks they needed to clear and the competition for varied results leaves us with what we are driving. a compromise at best and so the hidden gems are there but they are few and can be complicated to discover...

Geeze, really need a different hobby.... sorry for the long post, I don't play well with brevity of thought.... "street sweeper and change the lint trap" you guys rocked those comments..

 

Wow. I thought The Iliad took a while to read.

 

A few carriage returns (Enter Key) and I might try to read that post....