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Rear Propshaft Centralizing Pin... 2000 DII

Old Aug 10, 2020 | 12:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by frostythor
yes if you have watched the video , first you need to adapt a socket to pull out the centalizing peg as shown in the video, that lets you get to the nut/bolt holding the flange onto and into the diff
The OP keeps saying that he is unable to remove the peg. You keep telling him to remove it to get to the bolt. He's not even AT the bolt yet.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 03:12 PM
  #12  
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yes I do because if you look at the photo he posted he is using the puller to to pull the 3 hole flange and push against the peg have you watched the video the flange wont come off as it bolted to the drive pinion the peg is a push in tolerance fit , it clearly shows a socket used as a distance piece, then a suitable bolt with a nut, then a few washers on it the bolt is then passed through the socket and screwed into the peg, until its tight, now screw the nut down the bolt against the socket an pull out the peg

 

Last edited by frostythor; Aug 10, 2020 at 03:15 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 04:09 PM
  #13  
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Hi Again, can you confirm that this is how you are attempting to remove the peg, if it still has not come out do you have access to an electric welding machine?

if so the run a bead of weld as hot as you can around the base of the peg, keep going until its nice and red, this should break ant lock tight seal let it cool down when it now longer red hot but black put the socket back on and try to pull the peg out
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 10:24 PM
  #14  
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Hello, I have attempted once more to create a puller such as the one you have described and which your video represents. I still cannot remove the peg.

The puller that I posted a picture of operates by pulling on the peg as it threads into it, which is no doubt why I have broken numerous bolts. I added a nut between the puller and the bolt head to create tension as the nut threads down the bolt, creating a puller as you have described.

Just torched it again while the puller is holding pressure. I'm about ready to use the slide hammer on the puller a the same time. This is insanity.

I do not have access to a welder.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 03:33 AM
  #15  
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HI again, if you have the puller under tension which part are you warming up, it should be the flange, to expand it and let the peg go, see attached drawing





OK so as you don't have a welding machine, and I don't know what type of heat gune your using , if this does nor get it off, then you may need to slice and dice it take a cutting grinder and start to remove the flange

I take it you are going to replace it so cutting off would be the next thing to do, make one cut in between the flange legs from the front cutting into the base of the peg and the flange



taking it slow start to cut into the flange as shown trying do to go in to deep as you dont want to damage the shaft when you think you have managed to gut through if the puller is not on re attach it as try to pull the peg again the heat from the cutting may help the peg to loosen its a slow careful job
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 08:34 AM
  #16  
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Thank you frostythor, the diagrams are very helpful to visualize. I need to pick up longer bolts and stronger nuts and I will attempt again tonight after work. I've applied heat mainly at the flange from the front, last night I figured before I go to bed I'd try to turn the peg red hot (close but no cigar). Really trying to avoid cutting through the damn thing but I will.

Did you just put those drawings together? I've never seen those before aside from the RAVE one.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 10:35 AM
  #17  
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HI again , Yes I sat an did the drawing only took me 15-20 mins, I use to do a lot of drawing an how to do things when I worked Offshore as a Deep Sea Diving Supt, hence my logo

you mentioned you got the peg red hot last night, if you did that could have broken the grip, try the socket puller again, get it tight then start heating up the flange face keeping the heat away from the peg body, and behind the flange keep trying to tighten the nut as you go , I dont know but I would think your not using Oxy-Acetylene torch( Gas Axe) are you
 
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Old Aug 11, 2020 | 11:40 PM
  #18  
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Thank you for taking the time to make the diagrams, I appreciate the effort. I do not have an oxy acetylene torch, just a hefty propane torch.

I don't think I've ever been more annoyed at a single repair job. This seems like a cruel joke. Such a small piece that seems so simple but here I am stumped time and again, and each attempt seems to backfire in some way. The puller is currently stuck in the peg because the nut stripped. Didn't have a chance to get stronger nuts today but class 10.9 should have been okay... Applied heat as directed behind the flange.

Will try again briefly after work tomorrow but looks like I'll be doing some cutting this weekend. I feel absolutely defeated by this.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 02:42 AM
  #19  
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Hi again, dont be disheartened it only a matter of time before you get it out, I know you dont have one but can you not hire a small electric welder, I used them to get instant heat 6000 deg onto stuff,

any way which everway you go good if its cutting good luck with it, take care and take your time, dont cut yourself as disc cutters are not very forgiving use a set of decent hand gloves

OK silly question if the nuts striped why cant you just undo the bolt?as the nut should be on the outside
 

Last edited by frostythor; Aug 12, 2020 at 05:34 AM.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 07:15 AM
  #20  
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I suppose you're right, even if the job takes some cutting, once the peg is out it will still be a success.

I may look into this welder idea, I have a friend in town who may have one to share.

I could back the bolt out but I'm slightly concerned with how much thread is left and the integrity of those threads since I had to drill out a previous bolt. Just trying to avoid extra work or damage. I'll back it out with a vice grip today.
 
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