Reference Photos: OEM vs Chinese Alternator
@Mntnceguy I am going to disagree, the inline works well for me and yes it throws a CEL. But that is because to meet emissions the later D2's were set to run hotter, they were shipped with a 190 deg thermostat, which was reduced to a 180 after a spate of overheating issues. Now with a more aggressive fan clutch, and fan and the inline mod my 04 tosses the code for temp to cold for consistent operation, the exact same setup on a 02 does not even at similar temps. Now I have a problem in that I am pretty sure my thermostat is not seated right, so I have an unintentional bypass that will get sorted out when it gets warmer.
My temps are more consistent than they were with the stock setup,and given how bad the quality control has been on the stock thermostats I would never go back
My temps are more consistent than they were with the stock setup,and given how bad the quality control has been on the stock thermostats I would never go back
I will likely do a thread about it when I get it done and working, but the info I'm using so far are these two threads:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...36/#post920585
https://discoweb.org/index.php?threa...mod-3-0.95160/
And other than using RockAuto for the hose, coolant, and thermostat (I'll likely use the Motorad Superstat 2034-192), I found these sources for other parts. Although I will say that I am still waiting for my housing from AliExpress, so I am reserving judgement about it's quality and will wait to decide if I'll use it until I can see and inspect it:
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256807...apt=4itemAdapt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9PY9V9N...lig_dp_it&th=1
Anyway, hope that helps get ya started...
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...36/#post920585
https://discoweb.org/index.php?threa...mod-3-0.95160/
And other than using RockAuto for the hose, coolant, and thermostat (I'll likely use the Motorad Superstat 2034-192), I found these sources for other parts. Although I will say that I am still waiting for my housing from AliExpress, so I am reserving judgement about it's quality and will wait to decide if I'll use it until I can see and inspect it:
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256807...apt=4itemAdapt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9PY9V9N...lig_dp_it&th=1
Anyway, hope that helps get ya started...
Yes I've read those threads and have them saved. The issue I don't like is the poorly fitting hoses. I don't want to use 2 clamps on each end of the hose etc. I want it to look stock. Very interested in doing this mod as the genuine pel500110 is now unavailable. I dont like the heater matrix pressure build up or fault codes for the inline thermostat mod. I've found a genuine jag stat here in the UK for £33 so will go that route.
I look forward to your version of the Jag/Ford setup. The inline t-stat setup has been around for 14+yrs. It was commonly referred to as the Meziere Inline setup on another forum. The issue of losing the bypass system is well documented on various forums. I have run the Meziere setup from the beginning. I run a Flowkooler pump and throttle body delete as well. Over the years the inline setup has been tweaked and new discoveries made by forum members. I have never experienced the issues you describe. Worthless below 70 degrees? Based on what analysis? Cardboard needed below 50? I just pulled my cardboard at 44 degrees this weekend. Cabin was fire! This past week temps in Chicago were -30+ with wind chills. I run a 195 during this time. 5-10 minute warm-up. I have a block heater and oil pan heater. All recommended. The beauty of the Meziere setup is it takes 5 minutes to swap a T-Stat. Would a bypass make a difference? Maybe. Semi-Trucks running a closed muff for a reason and cardboard can be your friend. I was well aware that loosing the bypass system could cause cabin heat to be delayed. Perhaps this was news to you since you didn't research the modification. It has been discussed at length over the years and a 30 second search would have shown you the pros and cons. It appears you fooled yourself into believing the mod was perfect. I disagree that the OEM setup is better. You must not have been around when trucks were overheating and engines getting cooked due to a subpar factory t-stat/head gasket failures. The OEM t-stat sucks by design. It supposedly offers a faster cabin warm up in exchange for complexity, performance, and poor reliability. Hard Pass! It was so poor they had to come out with a new version to run it cooler. Those "new" versions sucked as well as many were poorly made and failed. It has been speculated that Rover intentionally ran these trucks hot to pass emission standards?? Running these trucks in the 200-220 range, as reported by members(myself included), is crazy. Acceptable, but not advisable. The inline setup offers that fix in exchange for loosing the bypass. Again, well documented. Add in some after market temp monitoring even better.
There is a plethora of information submitted by many forum members. All are from various backgrounds that have contributed excellent insight and in depth analysis on modifications. I understand you have buyers remorse based on your experience with the modification. Attacking a forum member personally/professionally, for selling you a kit that didn't perform to your expectation, is disingenuous. He didn't invent it. He simply tweaked a design that has been around for 14+yrs. There have been many members who are happy with this setup and prefer to keep the engine temps lower. It is superior to the OEM T-Stat in keeping temps low. I have driven my Rover in extreme temps and never wished I had the OEM setup back, EVER! Again, I look forward to your version of the Jag/Ford setup. Hopefully, you include plenty of photos, part numbers and performance data. I would be interested in running it and seeing how it compares to the Inline setup. Don't forget to include your coolant of choice and oil used because that always sparks a great debate!
There is a plethora of information submitted by many forum members. All are from various backgrounds that have contributed excellent insight and in depth analysis on modifications. I understand you have buyers remorse based on your experience with the modification. Attacking a forum member personally/professionally, for selling you a kit that didn't perform to your expectation, is disingenuous. He didn't invent it. He simply tweaked a design that has been around for 14+yrs. There have been many members who are happy with this setup and prefer to keep the engine temps lower. It is superior to the OEM T-Stat in keeping temps low. I have driven my Rover in extreme temps and never wished I had the OEM setup back, EVER! Again, I look forward to your version of the Jag/Ford setup. Hopefully, you include plenty of photos, part numbers and performance data. I would be interested in running it and seeing how it compares to the Inline setup. Don't forget to include your coolant of choice and oil used because that always sparks a great debate!
Baahhh! Electricity's easy. Kidding. I know a lot of non EEs struggle with their ECE classes. Learn parallel circuits, power, duty cycles, steady state vs peak loads (this will be a direct analog to things in your ME world), and understand that what you are learning is ideal circuits and components (again, directly analogous to your ME world). Nothing about circuits IRL is ideal. Every conductor has resistance, and every connection can fail...or at least become something well short of ideal. Enjoy your journey.
Welp, the REMY reman 150A alternator from Rock Auto was also dead on arrival. Orielly's testing showed a dead voltage regulator. Going to try ordering an ACDelco Gold reman instead.
Last edited by CharminULTRA; Feb 1, 2025 at 03:28 PM.
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