Yes, Dormans would work for steel wheels but not for OEM LR alloys.

 

Sorry, I don't agree. From what i see here the rover lug is not rounded at its front. Its a perfect tapered nose and thus more like the acorn style.

Just this is what I see from these pictures.

 

I thank everyone for helping me with this post. I'm still hoping someone will just "....Tell me what brand and where to buy..." a replacement set for my 2001 LR Discovery II.

I've googled and many companies suggest a replacement, but i just don't trust them. I'm also the guy who got tired of replacing the plastic valve cover caps on my valve stems, purchased metal ones on eBay and then the metals bonded and thus couldn't remove them. Yup, thats me.

So, I just want someone to tell me what replacement set should i buy and where? Thanks again everyone.

 

I know that you do not want to buy LR style replacements, but all the aftermarket ones are tapered tips when you need the mag style w/ a washer.
Get LR style replacements from RovahFarm, Lucky8 or RoversNorth. Make sure that you don't use an impact wrench on them.

RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories
WHEEL NUT ALLOY WHEEL P38A & DII, PLH565, ANR3679 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Lug Nuts : Wheel Nut

 

Trust me. They won't work on rover alloys. The front of the rover lug is not the part that seats to the wheel. Look at the where the lug seats to the wheel highlighted in red. The bottom portion of the rover lug goes into the wheel and the washer seats to the flat surface.

Acorn style tapered end seats to the face of the wheel in a tapered hole.

Those ebay lugs would fit INSIDE the holes in rover alloys.

 

I've never seen anyone put grease on the threads of a lug nut.

Is there a reason for that?

 

No one said anything about grease on the threads.

 

Actually I did #20, and will tell U upsides and downside. First downside, after a run in Fwy speed some of grease will smear out on face of wheels and U have to clean it! Now upside, from all nuts and bolts in a given vehicle, wheels are the most , being loosen and re-torqued ,factory nuts are always made from softer steel than the stud's (except on hubs that accept bolts, it's other way around) in order to preserve studs. As U loosen and re-torque them over time nuts wear slightly every time because of extreme pressure between treads, ( can be seen as fine steel powder-ish magnetized particles on older cars wheel studs) grease takes away the extra unwanted friction and lets the right amount of torque to be applied , (at same time keeps corrosion away). All bolts that need proper torque to be applied , like cylinder head bolt's as example,{ require to be oiled before installation, otherwise they won't have right torque setting, due to friction between tread's}, and if you are worried that grease will make them come loose by themselves , that is not going to happen as long as its torqued to specs required, actually that's the only way to get correct torque on any nut/bolt, I even put some grease between disco's lugnut's washers so after it sits on wheel face there be no friction between washer and nut , so it turns smoothly . I have done this practice for all kinds of vehicles (light-weight to extremely heavy multi-wheel trailers weighing over 450,ton's when loaded), never had one come loose.

 

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Oh that's OK. I just ask questions because I'm curious. Don't let it worry you.