I have no idea how you guys managed to get the SAI tube out. After about an hour twisting, contorting, and "finessing", I gave up and did the wires with it in there. I figured if I had that much trouble trying to get it out, it would be even more hell getting it back in! Thanks for the write-up. Would have been totally lost without it.

 

Got mine done, thanks a million, the maps helped a lot. I had them done a while back at the dealer, they charged me $800 as they needed to remove the IM, but I discovered that they used this method, but they left the coil unmounted and the SAI bracket was missing, sloppy, and factory wires were shot after 40,000. wont pay another penny for dealer work

 

Do it right and remove the upper plenum and while your at check your lower intake bolts they are usually loose, those intakes usually leak out of the back corners.

 

The SAI tube was a real bitch to get out, but went back in quite easily (to my relief). I had some trouble getting my meaty hands in behind there, I had to get my girlfriend to do one of them ... I think if I had to do it again I would remove the IM.

 

After having done this twice now here are my words of advice -

- open the hood as far as it goes and strap it open in that position with something to one of the roof rails...this way you wont have to worry about the hood...you need all of that space to complete this job with the least amount of hassle.

- you can leave the SAI tubes in there if you like and avoid having to manhandle them out...just remove the bracket that they're connected to (2x 10mm nuts) and you'll have ample room...just move the tubes as far as they will go towards the driver's side and tilt them up...even with my XL mitts I had room to work the wires.

- make sure that, if you go with STI wires (not sure about the other wire manufacturers, but I'm guessing it's the same deal), that you feel them "click" on every coil pack connection...it takes a little finnagling on some of them, but don't give up...they need to "click".

 

I was putting this job off after talking to a rep at the dealer and being told that the IM absolutely had to be removed and buying a new gasket at $80. I decided to research a little more online beforehand and thankfully found this site. The wiring diagram helped out a lot, and the only trouble I ran into was when one of the old STI terminals broke off in the coil pack. My 2 cents on this matter, don't waste time bending a screwdriver, go spend a little money and get yourself a 45 and 90 needlenose and a good prybar or screwdriver at least 18" in length. After breaking the terminal and tossing my freshly bent screwdriver aside I remembered these handy tools in my tool cabinet and they made the job much easier.

 

Thanks for the diagrams and comments....

I'll need to do this job, tomorrow.... I'm terrify.... ahahahaa....

 

Just study the instructions & pics here & take your time & it will be OK.

Good Luck

 

Thanks.

Now I´m waiting for the coils, because yesterday I changed the spark plugs, except N° 4 (coil's dead) and this is the issue...

I'll tell you the details as soon as possible...

Regards.

 

I did mine yesterday. 8mm Magnecors with Bosch +4s. It took about two hours total.

Looking at it initially, I thought there would be no way I'd be able to get my hands in there. I made sure that my girlfriend wouldn't be busy, in case I needed her little hands. And, I went ahead and bent a crappy old screwdriver but, honestly, only used it once. I found that it wasn't necessary to do either of the first two steps, though I did temporarily relocate the wire bundle while I was working back there.

As mentioned before, take your time and think about what you are doing. I disconnected the negative lead from the battery as I have the misfortune of getting zapped by a coil before. I started on the passenger side, #8 IIRC. I could just get my hand in there from the passenger side and was able to lever the boot off. Working along the top of the coil packs, I removed each wire and then let it dangle from the spark plug so that there would be no wire length issues later.

A word of caution here, and I'm sure someone more knowledgeable here can tell what it is. But, there is a hard plastic line coming off the coolant tank and it's pretty much in the way of the passenger side front plug and wire. I found out when it cracked and I got a fine spray of coolant all over the place. I ended up severing the line and doing a temporary fix with a 4" piece of fuel line and some zip ties until I order a replacement later.

Anyway, once all of the wires were disconnected, I started on the driver's side front, removed the wire from the plug, removed the plug, installed a new +4 with anti-seize compound and then hung a new wire. Once I did that with all of the plugs and wires, I threaded the middle bottom two wires in and then the outer bottom two. Getting the wires seated was much easier than removing them. For whatever it's worth, you can tell when they are seated properly because you will probably feel a slight click or you can look at the boot and you'll see that there is NO gap between the boot and the coilpack.

This was a three beer job. I have pretty big meathooks (XL glove) and, while it was not easy due to space constraints, this is completely doable. Just be patient and be prepared for a little frustration.