Thanks a bunch! Having read the "How to" made do another go at it again, and what saved me finally was that I removed a wire from the upper row, it gave me just that extra "breathing room" in there to maneuver the #4 back into its place in the lower row, as it was hanging loose. Having looked at it made me realize that it must have started getting loose in a while, as it was corroded, compare to another one i snapped from the upper row. This set of wires has only about 12k on them, blue STI; are these OK in your view? Thanks again, btw I found this "How to" on dweb, from what I read this write up here is the most comprehensive, so thanks a mill! Whoever decided to place coil packs on a Disco 2 where they are has to be punished, a lot.

 

I'm glad you go this sorted out, but I'd like to address this question:

NO

You will do damage ranging from excessive cylinder wear on the one that isn't firing at best to catalytic converter damage at worst (if its misfiring badly). When you see your "service engine soon" light flashing it typically means you are misfiring badly enough to put your catalytic converter and o2 sensors in jeopardy.

And cats are expensive, no matter what vehicle they're for.

 

awsome tech tips-and as I approach wires and plugs on my kid's 2000RR 4.0SE
I need a recommendation: In the last couple of days OBDII says #5&8 are missfiring. Idle is rough, seems so level out at about 1500RPM.
This coil shares common ECM pins-
Any ideas where to look for a low voltage fault in the coils? Should I install new coil(s) while changing the plugs and wires?
Also, I've seen reference to seafoam induction but can't find a specific link for the process.

 

Well I GED'd (GO 'ER DONE). All the tips helped a ton. The only one I forgot was to keep an idea of what length of wir came out of which position, I have one that is a bit tight because of that and two I had to change around because there was no way ot was going.

All in all a crappy job to do. I have pretty large hands and really had no problem after removing the tubing that goes above the coil block.

I would love to beat the hell out of the S.O.B. that designed that one. F'n engineers!

 

Took about an hour, didn't remove anything but one wire at a time. *shrug*

I think knowing the order well enough this would take me 45 minutes max to do again. Thanks for the instructions, nonetheless- gave me clues and confidence to do it myself.

 

Josh,
I guess pictures are better than words! This is the best diagram for ignition coil-spark plug wiring connections I've seen. Exactly what I was looking for (idiot-proof) All the other ones in the internet are partial of one and not the other and/or are right & left side confusing.
I recently did an engine swap and it occured to me that the easiest and quickest way to change coils/spark plugs wiring is to take out engine mounts and drop engine (provided you have an engine hoist). You should now ample space to work on coils. Turnaround time 1-2 hours at most.

 

Do you know if one can remove the entire coil pack or one coil at a time using the same or similar method?

 

I was able to remove the coil pack assembly using this method, it was tough but doable. You'll need to remove the rear plug wire holder on the passenger side and then slide the coil pack assembly over that way to get it out. It is kind of tricky.

 

Don't remove coil pack one at a time, it is hard to remove the third bottom bolt. Instead remove the "coil pack mounting bracket" (two top bolts plus two side bolt), then rotate the bracket to access the three coil pack bolts.

 

Thanks for all the knowledge fellas...hoping to get this done this weekend on my wife's disco.