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Replace Wires Without Removing IM

Old Sep 17, 2018 | 09:53 AM
  #241  
masantschi's Avatar
Overlanding
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From: Phoenix, AZ
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That's one of the reasons some go with a relocation kit. After my last round with it, I decided the next will be with a relocation kit myself.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 10:26 AM
  #242  
teeboli's Avatar
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Seriously... an attachment to the underside far back of the hood would make more sense than the original location.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 10:37 AM
  #243  
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I’ll have to say after years & years of owning and working on D2’s the coil pack location isn’t that bad. Once you do it, remove the studs on the intake (replace with bolts if you have SAI), it’s nothing vs more modern vehicles.

Case in point a friends mom drives a 2WD Ford Escape and the alternator went out. On our D2’s that is maybe a 30min job from start to finish. On the Escape the book wants you to remove the CV Axle, brake rotor, front hub, and disconnect the exhaust... Just for an alternator!!!! Took us nearly 5hr from start to finish just for an alternator.

If the coil packs are the worse thing a Bosch Equipped LR has = I’ll take that anyday vs other makes/models out there.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #244  
Discorama's Avatar
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From: CA
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I tried the same this Saturday (replacing wires without removing the intake manifold). The first seven wires came off more or less easily. I could get my hand in between the fire wall and the pack (after getting the silver SAI pipe out of the way) ...

and pull them after turning and wiggling them around, but got stuck with the last wire. It did not came out no matter how often and hard I tried. I even made a special tool from hard wood to get the best possible leverage for this plug but no luck at all.

I had no choice but to remove the manifold to get the coil pack out. Even the SAI union nuts came off with ease (this was my biggest concern, also needed to buy a tool for that = 27mm wrench). After getting the coil pack out I pulled the last wire but this was very hard, and I understood why I couldn't get it out before.



When having the coil plug out, it is also much easier to push the new wires in and make sure they sit tight. Also, I put in new spark plugs, because is is easier with the SAI pipes are taken out. It is also a good idea to tighten the bolts on the valve covers (they were all a bit lose and I hope that reduces my oil consumption, oil is coming from that corner although the gaskets were just new 1 year ago).

Long story short, everything went well. BUT: ALWAYS BE PREPARED to remove the manifold when trying to replace the wires the easy way. Plan for it! Luckily I started on Saturday and I had the whole Sunday.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:24 AM
  #245  
JUKE179r's Avatar
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From: Britainistan, UK
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Old post but great info on here. I'm going to knock this out when it gets warmer... in JUNE!!!
Originally Posted by Joshman
you will be on your stomach looking into the coil area for a while.
@Joshman … You mean I will finally have a six pack imprint on my stomach and have my coils swapped out too? Bonus!!! Lol
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 07:17 AM
  #246  
dparham's Avatar
Winching
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
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it was pretty strait forward. it did take a hr or so .. i strapped my hood up to my rack so not to have to work around the hood stand and then i could lay on engine and really knock it out..
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 07:27 AM
  #247  
DiscoBuckeye's Avatar
Winching
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From: Home of the Buckeyes
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I found the angled needle nose plyers were very very helpful
 
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 05:15 AM
  #248  
JUKE179r's Avatar
Camel Trophy
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From: Britainistan, UK
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A pic to help others with HT lead lengths and which cylinders they go to...


 
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 09:43 PM
  #249  
wakespeak's Avatar
2nd Gear
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From: Austin TX
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Thanks to all for the comments and advice. Really helpful. I spent the day yesterday on this, pulling the IM and replacing the coils. Not the hardest job but took me all day.

Notes:
- Need a stud remover (auto parts store had ONE left) to remove the little 1/4" studs on the passenger side. This allows you to keep the heater hose plumbing in place and avoid antifreeze mess. You can pull the SAI assembly away without removing the studs on the driver's side.
- The bottom 8mm bolts on the coil bracket must be loosened to remove the intake because the bracket clamps down on the back of the manifold. Top top bolts must be removed.
- I removed the SAI plumbing from both sides for easier access to the plugs, wires, sides of IM. Used a big crescent wrench.
- I had to the gently knock in the A/C pipe with a block of wood (along the firewall) about 1/4" to get the coils with the wires attached out.
- I followed the wiring diagrams above to plug the sparkplug leads into the coil before installing it. I checked the order about 20 times LOL.
- There were 2 locating pins around the front bolt and on passenger side rear bolt.
 
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