Mine were going off with a key cycle and still are that’s why did the mod I’ll have somebody pull the codes and see what I get

 

If when the codes are read if "shuttle valve switch intermittent electrical failure" appears, then it can be a wiring issue or bad shuttle valve seals, allowing brake fluid to leak onto the shuttle valve switch itself. Only way to see if there is a leak is to visually inspect the shuttle valve switch.

 

I’ve removed them to do the mod and they were dry ,I’ve read sometimes if you swap the cables around between earth and green wire it sorts the issue as the lowest resistance has to go to earth

 

Did you "jet wash" the engine bay? If you wet down the electrical connections between the fuse box and the radiator bottle it can trigger the amigos there is a large yellow or gray gang plug tucked in there. If the connection are wet the amigos can trigger
blow it out with compressed air

 

I’m check that later thanks

 

I had the same problem, I discovered that with some shuttle valve switch bypass methods in which the shuttle valve switch remains electrically connected to the hydraulic control block there is a polarity and if you have it backwards the lights come on right away! Here's a link to a brief video I made describing how to diagnose your problem.

 

Still don't see how I've done hundreds of Option B Repairs out on the side of the road, the trail, camp, a garage, or in a shop, and NEVER ran into any polarity issues. It's a circuit going thru 2 switches in series.

You can perform Option B and you will ALWAYS have the 3 Amigo's still present until you properly clear all the stored hard fault codes stored in the SLABS Unit itself. They will not simply just "go away". When properly cleared upon the first key cycle you will have just a single amber ABS light. Once you drive the D2 and the SLABS Unit see's speed readings from all 4 wheel sensors the amber ABS light will go out. If it doesn't go out and the 3 Amigo's come back you have other faults in the system.

 

It only happens with some shuttle valve switch bypass methods. You're using a method that's not affected by which way you hook the wires up. The step or test whatever you want to call it only applies to some and certainly not all bypass methods.

 

The "polarity" issue only has any relevance if you perform a stupid version of the shuttle valve bypass that retains the malfunctioning plug inside the ABS block instead of removing it completely. There's no reason at all to do it that way, and I don't know why anybody who has read the Option B documentation would even suggest it.