Replacing caliper boots?
#21
How did they come apart? Were they sticking to begin with? Is that the cause for the rebuild? If so, you can use a brake wheel cylinder hone, and lightly, and breifly hone the inner bore of the caliper using a drill and some brake fluid. You want the piston to slide in nice and easily, no bounding up, thats what causes the sticky calipers everyone seems to get eventually. Give that a shot
#22
honing will do you no good the piston does not ride in the bore, it rides on the seal.
you are correct you should be able to get them back in by hand, there should be no need for a c-clamp.
even if you managed to get them in with a c-clamp the odds are the they would not come back out if the fit is that tight.
you are correct you should be able to get them back in by hand, there should be no need for a c-clamp.
even if you managed to get them in with a c-clamp the odds are the they would not come back out if the fit is that tight.
Last edited by drowssap; 11-21-2014 at 11:08 AM.
#24
Order a set of semi-loaded calipers from Rockauto. They include all hardware including guide pins and boots and cost about $40 after you return your old caliper. A core charge is like bail until you send them your old caliper. Much easier than rebuilding.
Last edited by T.J.; 11-21-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#26
honing will do you no good the piston does not ride in the bore, it rides on the seal.
The square cut "rubber" seal was causing the piston to bind so badly that it wasn't able to get forcefully pressed in with a c-clamp? Sure... Metal on metal is what causes this issue...
Maybe they sold you the wrong rebuild kit Oilpatch?
Were all just pissing in the wind without pics anyway....
Thats a good deal at RockAuto, Brake on!
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