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Should I just give up on this engine?

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  #11  
Old 06-01-2023, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by matt3502
Your tapping sound may be a slipped sleeve. When "Winston" blew a head gasket I tore everything down. I discovered that my #4 cylinder sleeve had slipped up by about 2mm above the block. Using dry ice and a steel plate with lots of washers and the old head bolts, I was able to push the sleeve back flush with the block ( check my posts about the project). I had a tick for a long long time before hand, the HG breach was on the drivers side. I still have the tick, gets bad at times leading me to believe that my ticking may emanate from the bottom the engine, Just have not had time to look into. I did my HG's etc. 50k miles ago FWIW.
Yeah, thought to check that too. No slipped sleeves I could see while it was apart. In fact, not even a seam was visible on any of the cylinders.
 

Last edited by mcaramb; 06-01-2023 at 10:03 AM.
  #12  
Old 06-01-2023, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Based on your account of the first few minutes of run time, I am concerned about your cam/lifters. New lifters require a 15-30 minute (depending on who you ask) break in period. You'd only want to spin the motor over 20-30 seconds prior to starting it. You really want it to start fast and clean. Immediately bring it up to 3000 rpm and for roughly the next 20 minutes you rev it up and down between 2000 and 3000 rpm. That keeps oil on the cam and lifters and allows them to seat together without eating each other. At idle and while cranking, the cam and lifters see virtually zero oil which is why you want to minimize your cranking time prior to first start. 20-30 seconds just to get the oil pump to catch oil.
Yeah that's pretty much what I did and why I kept trying to rev it over 2000. But the problem is the knock was so bad at anything over idle, I couldn't keep it over 2000 for more than a few seconds before it sounded like I was about to throw a rod. It was THAT loud. Unfortunately, the last time I revved it I decided to hold it a few seconds longer than I felt was safe and sure enough, that's when it went THUNK and locked up. I'm wondering if all this could be possibly a bad crank shaft bearing and I actually did throw a rod...

I think my idea of running an endoscope up the spark plug holes will tell me if it's a valve collided with the piston or not. At least that's an easy check and won't be much of a drain on my sanity lol
 

Last edited by mcaramb; 06-01-2023 at 10:07 AM.
  #13  
Old 06-01-2023, 12:07 PM
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Ah, I completely missed the part where it locked up.

Well, in that case then I would be looking for a running used motor to drop in. Whether it's a dropped valve, which it doesn't sound like, or a bottom end issue, either way I'd be looking for a good used motor.
 
  #14  
Old 06-01-2023, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Ah, I completely missed the part where it locked up.

Well, in that case then I would be looking for a running used motor to drop in. Whether it's a dropped valve, which it doesn't sound like, or a bottom end issue, either way I'd be looking for a good used motor.
Yup. Kinda where I'm leaning. Looking for an engine now, but the car is 85 miles away still at my moms, so I can't check the sticker to recall the size of the engine which I believe they made in 4.0 and 4.6L. Do you know a way to tell off hand if the 2001 D2 is 4.0 or 4,6L I can't remember which is was.
 
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  #15  
Old 06-01-2023, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mcaramb
Yup. Kinda where I'm leaning. Looking for an engine now, but the car is 85 miles away still at my moms, so I can't check the sticker to recall the size of the engine which I believe they made in 4.0 and 4.6L. Do you know a way to tell off hand if the 2001 D2 is 4.0 or 4,6L I can't remember which is was.
a 2001 would be a 4.0 unless some dropped in the later 4.6. only the 2003 and 2004 Discoverys came with the 4.6.

really though, either engine could be dropped into an '01. the 4.0s are thought to be more reliable engines over the 4.6s.
 
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