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Should I use any silicone, all new gaskets

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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #1  
Willie00d2's Avatar
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Rock Crawling
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Default Should I use any silicone, all new gaskets

I am changing all the gaskets in my engine. Should I use any silicone or sealant on any of them? Also a guy at work said to use anti-sieze on all the engine bolts, is this a good idea?



Thank you,
Willie
2000 Discovery II
181,000 Miles
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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Scott R's Avatar
Mudding
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From: Denver, CO
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Valley pan and oil pan were the only places I used it, RAVE was pretty good about telling me exactly where to use it. In my case however the t-case needed a reseal as well and there are a few places you use it there. It sure is nice being leak free, good choice on doing everything at once.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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the only thing to use antiseize on is sparkplugs.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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greg409's Avatar
Winching
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I use rtv or permatex gasket maker on most of mine, understanding that if the part is clearance sensitive, make sure it's a thin coat.

Anti-seize on most bolts into alum, except where told not to in rave manual (heads for example).


luck,greg
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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I would use locktite not antiseize. I have more trouble with bolts coming loose than getting them out. The only bolts that have issues getting stuck in the block (that i know of) are the long front cover bolts that go through the coolant passages and sometime get corroded in.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Willie00d2's Avatar
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Rock Crawling
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Good idea on the locktite. My valve cover gaskets were finger tight. The oil seperator was totally glogged, so I am replacing that. I heard if the pcv is clogged oil will be forced out all over.

Willie
 
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Deff. use blue loctite on lower intake bolts. As for sealant we use Right-stuff at the dealer. That stuff is Vishiss when it dries. I put a very...very small line of it on both sides front and back of the head gaskets (right over the red line top to bottom). Remember like Greg said with no clearance the more you put on the more thats gonna come out! I've had real good luck with that. Make sure you blow out all the holes with air and clean all the surfaces nice and dry with brake clean. You dont have to use a air gasket grinder to clean the surfaces. Use a piece of 2X4 and a scotch brite pad or a whole bunch of razors. Put a small amount of oil on the head bolt threads and some grease on where the bolt flange hits the head. You can use anti sieze on anything else you want. I never have but thats all personal prefference. On the water pump, the driver side lower long bolt goes into coolant. I just put a small smear of right-stuff on the treads. The others are dry holes. Leave the exhaust manifolds on the heads. I've had the most problems with those bolts. Make sure you get a new o-ring for the heater hose pipe on the lower intake and the oil pick-up too! Just seal the oil pan in the 4 spots where the front cover and the rear main cap is with right-stuff. Good luck! Something will be leaking in 12k miles anyway! Ha!
 
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