So here I am at the side of the road waiting for my breaks to cool down enough to limp home.
My driver side rear to be specific. Happened a couple of days ago for the first time, got ticking hot before I noticed the smell. To her to a (non land rover) me mechanic yesterday, he pulled the break apart and said it was just dirty. Thought I was good to go.
This is after her first real off road experience with deep water and mud.
I'm wondering if it could be any of the electronics causing this? I haven't heard or felt any sign of tc activating. But the electronics did go a little haywire after the wading.
Otherwise I don't know how to proceed. Besides slowly.

 

Sounds like you will be looking at a new caliper. If you suspect ABS, it is hard to pull the ABS fuse, which is fuse link 11 under hood, bolts in. The ABS pump relay is number ten in same box, it is outside row next to the two small relays.

 

Thinking of finding some gravel and making the abs activate on the off chance that something would reset its self.
I'll take a look at that fuse.
Would have thought any mechanic would notice if my callipers were shot. But he's not my guy, out of town and going with the brother in laws suggestion. So no faith.

Now enjoying lunch at the first crappy bar I came across while things cool. Daytime drinkers sure are neat!

 

Well ABS/TC didn't help so I guess it's new caliper time. It was a long shot…

 

I suspected at sticking caliper on my D1, so I drove down a boonie road, coasted to a stop with no brakes, got out with my handy IR point and click thermometer, and "shot" each barke disc, thinking those on the same axle would be pretty close. One was 40F hotter. There are rebuild kits, but usually the bore has so much scoring that is not practical.

It has been reported that non-LR master cylinders will cause lock up as well.

 

So, how mechanical are you, have you done brake work before and are your 3 amigos on?
If you can do the work then order a rebuilt caliper from a good company, probably will need rotors and pads as well as 1 can of brake cleaner and 2 quarts of a good DOT4 brake fluid for a full brake flush of the syetm when done.. Would suggest you replace both rotors if the other side has not been replace over the last 60,000 miles and use Akebona brake pads, # EUR493's

 

"Brakes" not "breaks", whoops, little embarrassed by that.

Thanks guys.

I was going to order an A1 Cardone rebuilt from rock auto (here: Product Detail).
But I'm unsure if I can get away with just one side. Or even just pads on both sides. The guy I bought her from claimed he'd just replaced the routers and pads (4-5k ago).
I am a little worried about heat damage to the router (first time it was so hot it was smoking and ticking).

Mike: No codes as of yesterday. I'd do it myself if I was at home, but doing work with the brother in law's cheap tools is too maddening. So I'm getting a general mechanic to do it. But (going by experience), I expect to have to source my own parts (Canadian stealership parts are terrifying).
Just flushed the system two days ago when the mechanic had the first go at it. So at least I've got that.

 

"Rotor" not "router", sigh.

 

yes, but none of us could have read it without a few passes through routers. Viva Cisco!