Starting a new thread as the issue I had wasn’t fuel pump related. Original thread here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...96/#post699584

Hopefully this will help folks with the issue I had.

My son was driving truck and it just died on him while he was driving. He pulled over, got it started after 5 minutes, then it died again 15 seconds later. Solid cranking, but no start at all. Had it towed home and performed the following:

• Checked spark...weak but there
• Replaced crankshaft position sensor...no start
• Switched relays for the fuel pump...no start
• Checked connections to fuel pump...all ok no start
• Removed relay and jumped the pins...fuel pump ran fine
• Checked fuel pressure by pushing in schrader valve...solid pressure
• Cranked truck and checked pressure again...all good

So at this point I focused on the weak spark and came across a thread on another site where the op had the exact same symptoms as me. His fix was to replace the fuse box on the drivers side.

As it’s Sunday and I need to get the car running for my son, I started looking at why the fuse box goes bad. Unless it has burned out, it usually goes bad because of corrosion. So my other hobby is restoring vintage stereo receivers. I have a product I use for buttons, connections, etc. that eats away the corrosion. It’s called DeOxit D5 by Caig. I figured I had nothing to lose so I removed the fuse box, all the fuses, and took the board out. I liberally sprayed the outside and the inside of the board and let it sit for about 5 mins, then I used compressed air to dry it out. Let it sit 3-4 hours to really dry and reinstalled. Took a few seconds to catch, but it started and it runs great. I will probably order a new fuse box anyway, but this may help someone in the short term. I know not everyone has DeOxit, but I think any contact cleaner would be ok. Stuff isn’t cheap, but it works wonders.

I’ll post back if there are any updates.

 

Excellent!!!!!

 

Deoxit does work! I use it on client’s vintage drum machines and synthesizers.