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Spare key opens door, but won't turn in ignition

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Old 05-30-2019, 09:30 AM
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Default Spare key opens door, but won't turn in ignition

So I had a spare key made some time ago (Ace hardware), but I guess I only tested it in the door. Unlocks doors fine. When in the ignition, it won't turn at all. Goes in fine. From my understanding, the passive immobilization only disables cranking (i.e. Acc2 position -> start). Regular key works fine of course. Is it possible the spare key wasn't cut right and the ignition barrel has a lower tolerance, so I should get another key cut? I'm using Ilco key blanks from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-LAND-ROVE...72.m2749.l2649
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:59 AM
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I'd take it back to your Ace Hardware and have them take another crack at the key they cut some time ago. It may be as simple as a little work with a file or wire brush, but keys and wafers wear with age and as you said, tolerances vary. Or you can work on the "new" key yourself and soften any rough or sharp edges to better match your original key.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mln01
I'd take it back to your Ace Hardware and have them take another crack at the key they cut some time ago. It may be as simple as a little work with a file or wire brush, but keys and wafers wear with age and as you said, tolerances vary. Or you can work on the "new" key yourself and soften any rough or sharp edges to better match your original key.
OK, I figured, just wanted to make sure it isn't electrical or the ignition barrel is overly worn. What's the process on replacing an ignition barrel anyway? can it be done DIY - buying a barrel and matching key as a set?
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 11:32 AM
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Jeff,

Does your original key have a FOB? because thats what many ignitions need to "sense" to turn the engine over. I think all DII's need a FOB that is programed to the vehicle to turnover.

If you need a new Key in the future consider this:

I had a problem with my ignition cylinder and replaced it EASILY with a part from Atlantic British, its comes with two "retro" keys cut for the cylinder that do not have or need FOBS. It costs around $220 but thats half the cost that Rover would charge you to program a new FOB.
They have a video that shows exactly how do do it. let me know if u decide to do it and if u need any advice.

https://www.roverparts.com/resources...-discovery-ii/

Stefan
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:28 PM
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Can you post a photo of the key? I had the same issue with a newly cut key and I had to grind the tip of it from the pointy end the blank came with to more of a rounded shape the OEM key had.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by stefanas
Jeff,

Does your original key have a FOB? because thats what many ignitions need to "sense" to turn the engine over. I think all DII's need a FOB that is programed to the vehicle to turnover.

If you need a new Key in the future consider this:

I had a problem with my ignition cylinder and replaced it EASILY with a part from Atlantic British, its comes with two "retro" keys cut for the cylinder that do not have or need FOBS. It costs around $220 but thats half the cost that Rover would charge you to program a new FOB.
They have a video that shows exactly how do do it. let me know if u decide to do it and if u need any advice.

https://www.roverparts.com/resources...-discovery-ii/

Stefan
They don't. At least my 2002 didn't. I was able to unlock and start the car with just a non-fob metal blade key cut by a run of the mill locksmith. The fob does indeed need to be coded though, but that's just to unlock and lock the doors remotely, not to start the car.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 12:35 PM
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I've never had trouble starting up without a fob. Metal key works just fine.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:17 PM
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DII keys are old school. No transponder chip.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:18 PM
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Hey Jeff, a while back I needed a spare and had it cut.. Abran from CARS4X4 sold me the blank and programmed it for $80.
 
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon318
Can you post a photo of the key? I had the same issue with a newly cut key and I had to grind the tip of it from the pointy end the blank came with to more of a rounded shape the OEM key had.
Ooooh you might be onto something there. The spare is definitely a lot sharper at the tip. I'll give that a try
 
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