So when zipping on the highway and hitting 60+ MPH, then having to apply brakes aggressively - for example going off an exit ramp - the steering wheel shutters for maybe one to two seconds, then everything is ok.

However, when cruising anywhere where from 20 to 50 MPH, and having to apply brakes rapidly, there is no steering wheel shudder (or wobble).

In both scenarios, I think I am applying the same amount of foot force to the brake peddle, but it is only a guess.

I suspect I may have a warped rotor and if so, is there a methodic way to determine which rotor? Also, if I do need to replace a rotor, how on God's earth do I remove the set screw? Yea, impact wrench or something, but boy do each of the four rotor set screws look really seated.

Finally, brakes all around are fine; anywhere from 95% to 50% pad life remain. FTR, I replaced the left rear pads using Akebono pads about a month ago, so not sure if something is happening there, but thought I would mention this to you rover homies.

I'm very wet behind the ears on doing my own repairs, but eager to learn. So, easy "1,2,3," instructions on how to trouble shoot would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

 

I don't think it is the rotors it would happen every time, I would the frontend bushings from what you say it seams to happen when you are turning and not going straight.

 

Happens when going straight...not so much when turning.

The paradox is why does this shudder (steering wheel wobble) when applying brakes from a higher rate of speed vs lower rate of speed?

I'm heading out now to do some errands in the disco and I'll perform a couple of quick stops from high and low rates of speeds; turning as well. I'll report my findings later today on this post.

Rob

 

I must have misread

 

Experiencing the same exact behavior and waiting for the last part to arrive, in the next days I will report observations as front calipers and rotors will be replaced to rule out -or not- their involvement in the severe shudder.
I suspect is the genetical zonal contamination of rotors with pads deposits, not warped discs. Read somewhere such thing happens when brakes are kept applied when stopped after aggresive braking.

 

Search for "Death Wobble" - it will continue to get worse. It takes a certain level of force to start the oscillation. Mine was fine on streets, on expressway ramp, braking, making a sharp turn I thought I was about to loose control of the machine, had to carry a carton of Depends at all times.

It is not the steering damper, but a new one can mask the issue slightly.

I had to change the tie rod ends and a sticking rear brake caliper. IR thermometer confirmed one disk was 40- 50F warmer than other on same axle after coasting to a stop on a back road. Some owners also have bushings to replace.

 

Up-date on wobble:

Definitely a shudder from high speed and braking to a stop; mind you the brake is not a sudden brake where you begin to skid. More like a hard brake; almost an abrupt stop.

Also, I stand corrected; shudders when turning and applying brake, but only at a high speed of rate.

No shudder when traveling 40 mph and then coming to an abrupt start.

What I'm not clear on is the advice I am suppose to heed. Replace Tie Rods? Replace Bushings? Replace all Rotors and Calipers? Clean our brake pads?

Thanks guys,
Rob

 

Warped rotor along with warn steering most likely.
Did you say you put some Akebono pads on only 1 rear wheel?

 

which warped rotor?

Yes, one side only. Other side was fine.

 

Replace both front rotors and be done with it, they are cheap and its a easy DIY job.
Drill out the retaining screws if you cant get them loose, you do not need them.
The DII does not suffer from the death wobble like the DI and Range Rover Classic and Defenders and Series do.
Go to AutoZone, buy your rotors and you're back on the road in a afternoon.