I think I was reading the wiring diagram for the BCU. It looks more like self levelling is white wire with pink and black. The wire is two short for me to splice back together. I'm looking for something to use. I had my soldering iron in my hand when I left town to come up here. I'm not sure why I didn't bring it.

So I'm preparing for my CKP unit arriving. Looking up the stuff, seeing what tools I need. I took another look at the unit and realized that I'm missing the cap! By the looks of things down there the cap has been missing for a while.

 

***Edit*** These acronyms are killing me****

Mines a 99 Disco 2 and I'm looking at 2003 wiring diagrams. Another Oops.

The correct workshop manual states

Input/Output
Because of the nature of its operation the CKP sensor does not require any electrical input source. The CKP sensor is a 3 pin variable reluctance sensor generating its own electrical output. The 2 output sources from the sensor are earthed via pin 46 of connector C0636 of the ECM and sensor output is via pin 32 of connector C0636 of the ECM. This output is in the form of an ac voltage waveform. The 3rd pin is used by the ECM as an earth screen, this screen protects the integrity of the CKP sensor signal to ensure that outside electrical interference is eliminated, it is controlled via pin 45 of connector C0636 of the ECM. The ac voltage generated from the CKP sensor is relative to engine speed.

 

I connected that wire up and tried starting it. It did not start. On the bright side, I may have just fixed my cruise control.

Now I'm hoping that at the end of my long winded thread, Disco Mike can come back and say, "I told you so" Hopefully the CKP is in tomorrow.

 

-31c (-28.8F) out this morning. I hope the part doesn't come in. At minus 32c the two temperature scales meet.

I'm wondering how long I've been driving without the CKP sensor cap in place. I'm wondering if there is something right where I'm parked causing interference. My understanding is that it acts as an electromagnetic shield.

 

IMHO unlikely. People drive Rovers next to police cars, cabs, amatuer radio operators, and in city areas there is all sorts of RF (every frequency from DC to light). Their cars crank up. The cup does not have RF shield mesh around the edge. The wire from the sensor is shielded, but the connector certainly is not. I would wonder if you cleaned off some of the gunk, with brake cleaner or electronic cleaner. Anything that shorts across the wiring pair from the coil, or shorts it to ground would diminish the signal from the coil.

Now the signal is a low voltage AC signal, and that shielding keeps other noise from spark plugs, etc., from adding additional pulses and making timing jitter. But should not keep plus from firing at all.

If you have an pal in camp that is an instrumentation guy, he may have a portable oscilliscope that could be attached to watch the signal, which should look like attached .

Down here where it is warmer, the typical electrical problem with the CKP is that the coil opens up (bad solder joint, etc.) when engine block gets hotter after car parked for a few minutes. Won't re-crank until truck cools off. I'd bet that the same could be true in cold weather, a bad solder joint or connection can have a mind of it's own.

 

I plan to get under there today and clean it up the best I can in preparation of the new part. One of the guys is running into Fort McMurray later today and my part should be at the bus depot.

I'm concerned about running without the cap once I get the replacement CKP. I'm looking online to try and find a cap but not having much luck. My rover shop in Calgary is closed for the weekend so I'll ask them tomorrow.

By the looks of it, I've been running without the cap for some time, so I shouldn't be too worried. When I find the cap to order, I should order a second CKP just to be sure.

It would make sense that the part failed due to cold and hot contractions. It died after starting up and running for 7 or 10 minutes on a cold morning.

What size of nuts do you suppose those are holding the CPK in place?

 

metric and minature, when held by gloved hands while wrapped in insulated coveralls.

 

Update;
Part came in last night. This afternoon I climbed under there and used brake cleaner and cleaned up the area. Then spent a little over an hour getting the two nuts off. It definitely would help to have a small ratchet with a swivel on it. Oh well. I've got some minor frost bite on my arm where it had to press up against the frame while wedging my arm up in the the small cavity.

It is a 7mm nut, for those that care. The last one was being stubborn, but eventually I got it off and it popped off the bolt, bounced off the frame and landed in my heavy winter coat's hood. So I very carefully got up and took off my coat. No nut. Then I carefully walked into the trailer and carefully removed all of my winter gear in the middle of the room hoping the nut would drop out. Nothing. So I went back outside and scoured through the snow. Then it started snowing. No nut. I came back in and checked my winter gear again, and even my boots just in case it fell down my over pants and into my boot. No luck. So I went back outside and started scouring the snow again. I felt around any ledges and and still no nut. I pulled the two way radio antennae off my truck roof and unscrewed the arial. It's base is a magnet that holds it to the roof of the truck. I used that to scour throughout the snow. It was when I was checking spots around the truck that it could not possibly be that I decided to give up on the nut.

I will admit that there was a small bit of cursing at times throughout this ordeal, but now I had resigned myself to the fact that the nut was lost. So I climbed back under the truck and carefully pulled the old CKP sensor and it's spacers out. Carefully!!!! so I wouldn't loose them into the bloody snow also.

It was starting to get dark at this point so I gathered my few tools and climbed out from under the truck. As I was doing so, the nut dropped onto the snow in front of me. I don't know where it came from. Stuck to the outside of my coat? I kept expecting Alan Funt to step out from behind a snow bank laughing at me, or a Raven, otherwise known as Loki the jokester to be sitting on top of the office trailer with a guttural laugh…. but nope.

So, good new! I have the new part. The old part is off. I've only suffered minor injury. I think I'm going back under there if I can get my head lamp to work. Wish me luck!

 

Good Luck!

 

I want to preface this with the fact that I am fairly ill, so it may make more sense.

Yesterday I had to remove and replace the Catalytic Converter in my wife's VW New Beetle. It was around 50 degrees and I was working on Hard Asphalt. It was tough for me and my shoulders are now bruised. It was difficult to remove the 4 bolts and my hands suffered from muscle strain. I dropped wrenches into my face a couple times, etc.

Now, after reading your ordeal, I will stop moaning to myself and happily go out and repair anything I need to without complaint! Besides, wrenches won't hurt my ugly mug...

My hat's off to you vonrock! You are a good example of what REAL Oil Men are all about.