I've read on a number of posts about replacing the factor stat with the Motorad 180 degree, my question is while Im at it should I do the water pump? Ive read that a few feel that the stock pump impellers are not as good as after market. Any suggestions? While its apart plan on replacing the DEX with green as suggested, is there anything else I should tackle while in the front end.
Presently installed a ultragauge, she runs 199-208 at the highest, avg is 204 the disco just turned 63k. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Im a newb to disco's

 

I have an 03 I bought just before Xmas; I replaced the T Stat with a 180F Land Rover Grey one. ; after having the system flushed and refilled with green abti freeze.
Personally, I would wait on the water pump until it proves a problem. The Ultra Gauge will allow you to monitor changes in you're system.
Also, make sure your electric fan for the A/C condenser is not seized, mine was.
Cheers,
Pik

 

Make sure to review/follow the bleed process for getting air out of the coolant system once you change the coolant.

 

Water pump should have many miles left on it. If you have a healthy cooling system, with no use of well water and tap water, it will last longer. Once it starts to wobble the pulley it is eating aluminum, seal goes and it leaks out the nose. On left is model from 170K D1, D2 at 115K on right. The brown coating is stopz leakz, which as you can imagine will reduce the heat transfer (and may stop a minor leak). A new water pump can come with a larger bronze impeller, the stock is stamped stainless steel I believe.

Radiator can be checked for sludge by comparing temp on the fins from top to bottom in a vertical line, engine off and warmed up. If more than 10F spread, the lower rows will be cooler due to sludge buildup form Dexcool, corrosion, and stopz leakz.

The thermostat can have the tiny holes at top plugged with trash and that will allow less hot coolant to enter and warm up the stat to open. The 180 is a fresh start, and will have no trash.