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I'm following the manual, but the last thing I want to do is crack more of this brittle old aluminum and I can't be sure exactly which spec I should be using.
The sump bolts are clear - 16 lb-ft
The other 6 bolts (2 facing the engine and 4 facing the tailpipe) that attach the sump to the bell housing aren't clear to me - 6 lb-ft?
I don't think the 6 bolts are supposed to be tightened at 16 lb-ft like the sump bolts... Is it this spec for 6 lb-ft? Oil sump to gearbox housing bolts 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft) They're mentioned in the disassembly... but not the reassembly...
thanks that’s what I was looking for those bolts but wondered if I was looking at the right description and if I should follow that (don’t have a wrench that goes that low anyway) or some other recommendation since I know these leak - trying to just do what I can to keep the oil in there.
Thank you - I've got the pickup pipe installed on the new front cover and I'm ready to install the sump - cleaned the sump throughly and the gasket surfaces. I plan to follow the manual, which shows that I need to use globs of sealant (I'll use ultra black) on the ends of the cruciform seals and streak the sealant across the areas where the front cover and the sump meet. I trimmed back the excess sealant and gasket that was sticking out between the engine block and the front cover so the sump will seal better with some sealant and the gasket, hopefully. If there's anything else that's recommended for this like using loctite on all the bolts (not specified in the manual) or using more sealant elsewhere on the surfaces please let me know. There's some pitting on the engine block gasket surface - I'd say it's minor, but I'm not an expert.
I installed mine exactly as recommended by the RAVE manual and leak free 2+ years later. I would put emphasis on cleaning the surfaces, taking your time installing the pan, torquing it down correctly and making sure your PVC system is working correctly.