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Switched from Dex now have a leak. Great

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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #21  
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Hope the K-seal keeps working. My only concern would be the changing dimensions of the plastic during heating and cooling. A flxible sealer like RTV would be better in that situation. I had the same leak and I just pulled the screw, dried up the hole as best I could, pumped in some RTV, inserted the screw and that was it. I replaced the radiator a week or two later and when I pulled the tank I found this:
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #22  
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From: NNJ
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
I know you will be extra careful around the fan.....
LOL...don't make me smack ya! All I know is I will never be anywhere near it with the engine running... EVER!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 04:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 04duxlr
Hope the K-seal keeps working. My only concern would be the changing dimensions of the plastic during heating and cooling. A flxible sealer like RTV would be better in that situation. I had the same leak and I just pulled the screw, dried up the hole as best I could, pumped in some RTV, inserted the screw and that was it. I replaced the radiator a week or two later and when I pulled the tank I found this:
For plan C I could throw some in there if needed. Without knowing what the size of the hole was I was worried about dropping in a bunch of it. Hopefully I will just be able to swap it out soon anyway.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #24  
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Look forward to that! Worst job I've done on a vehicle in a while, mostly for stupid stuff like siezed fasteners, tight fitting pieces (I left the tranny cooler hooked up) and coolant soaked hair. The job took way too long. Took me less time to do the ball joints in my P38! Of course, you already have the flushing part out of the way so that should help. I'd make sure you spray all of the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before you do the job.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:39 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 04duxlr
Look forward to that! Worst job I've done on a vehicle in a while, mostly for stupid stuff like siezed fasteners, tight fitting pieces (I left the tranny cooler hooked up) and coolant soaked hair. The job took way too long. Took me less time to do the ball joints in my P38! Of course, you already have the flushing part out of the way so that should help. I'd make sure you spray all of the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before you do the job.
Oh yes...I did it twice on the 00. No stuck bolts or anything, just a pain in the butt. I saw a way to do it without removing the fan, I have to find that and see what way to do it.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 07:59 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Snafu / Disco Fries

I had exaçt same issue... Coming out of a local store i saw the puddle... I was inside for about 1.5 hrs so truck was pretty cool and i only have about a block to get home and i have an onboard computer ( ultra-gauge) so i knew exact temps... I risked it and made it home before truck heated up... Anyway, i dried and cleaned off that area and used a fibergalss radator epoxy patch kit and it worked... For about 6 months lol anyway.. New radiator and water pump go in monday! ( water pump only because its preventative but may have a little leak behind it on gasket... Im not running hot but hotter than i think is normal... Also adding new hoses and lower temp thermostat
 

Last edited by dparham; Mar 29, 2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 10:31 PM
  #27  
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BTW thanks to those brave lads who posted the photos, you are now Chapter 8 in my cooling problems novel.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 11:29 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
BTW thanks to those brave lads who posted the photos, you are now Chapter 8 in my cooling problems novel.
Great thread Savannah.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SuperSport
Great thread Savannah.
Agreed... just hope to not be included in Chapter 9!
 
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