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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 02:36 PM
  #11  
Jared9220's Avatar
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From: San Antonio,Tx
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Originally Posted by dusty1
So my light came on today
So after replacing both temp sensors I have not had the light come back on, until now. I'm about 180 miles away from my house and it happens. I got out and did the quickest test that I could think of which was to unplug the leads to the transfer case. Light promptly went out.
My question is, if you take away the possibility of the wiring error causing the light, what would cause my transfer case to get hot? Low oil is not the issued. However, I do use the sender port as my fill level. Could I possibly have to much oil?
My vents are not clogged either.
Transfer case is supposed to be on the low end of the worry about list.
Any thoughts?
Check the parking brake cable and make sure it is not to tight. There is a nut on the drum that you loosen to release the tension on the cable.

Did you do any work to the diffs recently? Something binding up in the diffs might be putting resistance on the T-Case.

I would think that the friction from a worn out bearing could heat the oil rather quick, especially if you are at Highway speeds.

What weight oil are you running?

What is the sender port I can't seem to find that in the RAVE? and can I ask why you don't use the fill hole to fill the T-Case?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:07 PM
  #12  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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These temp sensors are only fitted to the V8 models for some reason. I suspect it may be something to do with exhaust heat transfer or similar. There is a modified oil sump which fits in place of the sump plate which aids cooling.

Another option would be to 'bodge up' a temporary heat shield between the exhaust and the transfer box and see whether it alters the situation.



LT230 oil cooler - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

http://discoii.files.wordpress.com/2...ansfer-box.pdf
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #13  
dusty1's Avatar
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From: dallas texas
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Originally Posted by Jared9220
Check the parking brake cable and make sure it is not to tight. There is a nut on the drum that you loosen to release the tension on the cable.

Did you do any work to the diffs recently? Something binding up in the diffs might be putting resistance on the T-Case.
not in a while. truetrack and gears, last year.
I would think that the friction from a worn out bearing could heat the oil rather quick, especially if you are at Highway speeds.
only happening at long travel highway speeds
What weight oil are you running?
lucas 75-140

What is the sender port I can't seem to find that in the RAVE? and can I ask why you don't use the fill hole to fill the T-Case?
I actually remove the temp sender and add lube through there....thinking "the more the merrier"
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #14  
Motorhead1's Avatar
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From: Southern OR
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I actually remove the temp sender and add lube through there....thinking "the more the merrier"
I would try draining the transfercase oil down to the fill plug level and see how it reacts. That doesnt cost any money

Did you do any work to the diffs recently? Something binding up in the diffs might be putting resistance on the T-Case.
not in a while. truetrack and gears, last year.
I want a Truetrac in the rear myself....
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:44 PM
  #15  
dusty1's Avatar
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From: dallas texas
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Love the tts
" fill it and forget it, it's there when you need it "
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 05:00 PM
  #16  
dusty1's Avatar
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From: dallas texas
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confused...hijacked my own thread and started another oooops
multitasking
please consolidate.....any further info here
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ing-hot-68049/


sorry
 
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