Question...when you got it started, by jumping relay...did you drive it?

 

No, got it to start late last night and the mufflers aren't attached yet, so it's loud as hell.. Going to button it all back up today and report back..

I'm sure I will get some codes once I start moving it around under it's own power...

 

I'd check all of your harnesses around the exhaust area very carefully, especially, if you used heat/torch to get bolts off manifold...may have melted some wires or something...or pinched them while removing y-pipe. The inertia switch harness runs right there along firewall, passenger side...easy one to get bugger up.

Hopefully, you start making some headway with these issues.

Brian.

 

If I were to get underneath with my multimeter, could I test each and every pigtail plug around the transmission? Should all wire have zero resistance?

we tested the F2 fuse that keeps popping, and it has resistance with the truck off, so I know there's a ground or crossed wire.. but visually inspecting hasn't found anything yet, so I need to test them somehow

 

It's a little more difficult than that. You need to know where and what each wire is for.
Just checking resistance to ground will only tell you which ones are grounds or current carrying wires that are shorted. But, if you don't know which is which...it's kind of fruitless attempt at finding the problem.

If I was going at this thing cold, without wiring diagram or with limited knowledge...I'd start at the fuse box at fuse #2 and follow its path, once you find the color of the wire and direction, you can follow it inside the vehicle or underneath. A direct short is blowing that fuse, and odds are...it happened while reassembling things. I belive you mentioned taking the console a part, maye some wires got buggered up there?

Brian.