Tricky Dick - Head Gasket Replacement
Summary, pressure continues to build in coolant system and truck is now consuming 1 cup of coolant on each run & I get the occasional misfire on cylinder 3.
I have not done a chemical or pressure test but, after watching AB video, I am pretty damn sure I have a head gasket that is going south very quickly.
Engine temps range is between 188 and 194 and coolant will still come out of the expansion tank due to pressure (yes I have bled the system)
Questions I have:
1. What is the difference between the Lucky8 and AB head gasket kits (beside AB having more bits and pieces), is the material the same?
2. I am thinking I can knock this out (I have SAI) in about 8 hours, am I off basis?
3. Should I replace anything else while I am doing this (i.e. injectors)?
I will follow this video from AB
I have not done a chemical or pressure test but, after watching AB video, I am pretty damn sure I have a head gasket that is going south very quickly.
Engine temps range is between 188 and 194 and coolant will still come out of the expansion tank due to pressure (yes I have bled the system)
Questions I have:
1. What is the difference between the Lucky8 and AB head gasket kits (beside AB having more bits and pieces), is the material the same?
2. I am thinking I can knock this out (I have SAI) in about 8 hours, am I off basis?
3. Should I replace anything else while I am doing this (i.e. injectors)?
I will follow this video from AB
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; Dec 8, 2019 at 03:20 PM.
Take off oil fill cap and run your finger tip on the inside top. Then taste your finger. Is it bitter sweet? yes = antifreeze in oil compartment = HG leak (or less commonly a liner/block issue)
Since you are asking, I suspect that it will take you more than 8 hours. Do you have a set of machined heads ready to go? that will save time. I have done many rebuilds before, but little things slowed me down, like stripped downpipe stud, cleaning the block mating surfaces, bagging and tagging all the parts. Hard work and all tools and parts ready to go, and experience, shoot for two days done slow and right.
OEM TTY bolts or ARP studs?
Composite or generic HG's?
Coils original? now would be time to replace coils, wires, and H2O pump..
Old dry fuel lines and leaky snap connector?
H2O lines cracked, clamps need replacing?
Injector seals, injectors?
new oil/antifreeze
serp belt?
etc......
Also recommend an 'accurate' digital 1/2" torque wrench for the head nuts if you go with ARP.. ....
Since you are asking, I suspect that it will take you more than 8 hours. Do you have a set of machined heads ready to go? that will save time. I have done many rebuilds before, but little things slowed me down, like stripped downpipe stud, cleaning the block mating surfaces, bagging and tagging all the parts. Hard work and all tools and parts ready to go, and experience, shoot for two days done slow and right.
OEM TTY bolts or ARP studs?
Composite or generic HG's?
Coils original? now would be time to replace coils, wires, and H2O pump..
Old dry fuel lines and leaky snap connector?
H2O lines cracked, clamps need replacing?
Injector seals, injectors?
new oil/antifreeze
serp belt?
etc......
Also recommend an 'accurate' digital 1/2" torque wrench for the head nuts if you go with ARP.. ....
Last edited by XRAD; Dec 1, 2019 at 04:25 PM.
take off oil fill cap and run your finger tip on the inside top. Then taste your finger. Is it bitter sweet? Yes = antifreeze in oil compartment = hg leak (or less commonly a liner/block issue) the coolant is not in the oil, it is getting into the cylinder after getting over pressurized due to gasket leak on (assuming, front of heads)
since you are asking, i suspect that it will take you more than 8 hours. Do you have a set of machined heads ready to go? Negative, will used the same heads and not machine them. That will save time. I have done many rebuilds before, but little things slowed me down, like stripped downpipe stud, cleaning the block mating surfaces, bagging and tagging all the parts. Hard work and all tools and parts ready to go, and experience, shoot for two days done slow and right.
Oem tty bolts or arp studs? - i would use the head bolts in the kit, are you saying i should get new studs for other parts?
Composite or generic hg's? - both ab and lucky8 say composite
coils original? Now would be time to replace coils, wires, and h2o pump.. - completed
old dry fuel lines and leaky snap connector? - added to list pending hg repair
h2o lines cracked, clamps need replacing? - completed
injector seals, injectors? - added to list pending hg repair
new oil/antifreeze - completed
serp belt? - completed
etc......
Also recommend an 'accurate' digital 1/2" torque wrench for the head nuts if you go with arp.. ...i agree, my mechanical is a few years old and probably out of calibration
since you are asking, i suspect that it will take you more than 8 hours. Do you have a set of machined heads ready to go? Negative, will used the same heads and not machine them. That will save time. I have done many rebuilds before, but little things slowed me down, like stripped downpipe stud, cleaning the block mating surfaces, bagging and tagging all the parts. Hard work and all tools and parts ready to go, and experience, shoot for two days done slow and right.
Oem tty bolts or arp studs? - i would use the head bolts in the kit, are you saying i should get new studs for other parts?
Composite or generic hg's? - both ab and lucky8 say composite
coils original? Now would be time to replace coils, wires, and h2o pump.. - completed
old dry fuel lines and leaky snap connector? - added to list pending hg repair
h2o lines cracked, clamps need replacing? - completed
injector seals, injectors? - added to list pending hg repair
new oil/antifreeze - completed
serp belt? - completed
etc......
Also recommend an 'accurate' digital 1/2" torque wrench for the head nuts if you go with arp.. ...i agree, my mechanical is a few years old and probably out of calibration
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; Dec 1, 2019 at 05:39 PM.
I am having to do a head gasket job due to head bolt stretch.... I went with the ARP stud kit.. I bought mine off Amazon, look for the old style 14 bolt head kit. It is half price of the current set and you just don't use the 8 shortest studs. Total price for the kit was like 140 bucks vs 275 from AB.
I am having to do a head gasket job due to head bolt stretch.... I went with the ARP stud kit.. I bought mine off Amazon, look for the old style 14 bolt head kit. It is half price of the current set and you just don't use the 8 shortest studs. Total price for the kit was like 140 bucks vs 275 from AB.
Nothing wrong with the supplied TTY bolts (though you may read many arguments either way). My preference is ARP studs n nuts. Using same heads, you should get them level checked/machined at minimum. Seals could be done as the come in the AB kit. Any NA head gasket leak is a two way street. There will always be some coolant into oil. Check out my HG rebuild pic :
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...#&gid=1&pid=55
As far as the kits, some of the gaskets are included and some left out, depending on kit style and vendor. Some of the exhaust gaskets are different. But the HG's all look the same (except for the little copper washers). I have used VReintz comp head gaskets on many rebuilds in the past. The VReintz HG image is the same as Elring composite image which is included in the AB comp kit, and same as the Amazon and ebay head gasket kit. Suspect one comp HG factory(probably in China), many wrappers......and the 6$ rimmer bro HG's look the same but without the x2 little copper seals....
Also, I suspect that the composite material (depending on batch?) breaks down with heat cycling (thermal and mechanical) sometimes sooner than later. OEM gasket is Supersession(s): ERR5437; ERR7217
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...#&gid=1&pid=55
As far as the kits, some of the gaskets are included and some left out, depending on kit style and vendor. Some of the exhaust gaskets are different. But the HG's all look the same (except for the little copper washers). I have used VReintz comp head gaskets on many rebuilds in the past. The VReintz HG image is the same as Elring composite image which is included in the AB comp kit, and same as the Amazon and ebay head gasket kit. Suspect one comp HG factory(probably in China), many wrappers......and the 6$ rimmer bro HG's look the same but without the x2 little copper seals....
Also, I suspect that the composite material (depending on batch?) breaks down with heat cycling (thermal and mechanical) sometimes sooner than later. OEM gasket is Supersession(s): ERR5437; ERR7217
Last edited by XRAD; Dec 2, 2019 at 07:24 AM.
Look closely at the gasket composition. I think the ridged metal AB gaskets for exhaust headers are better. Don;t know what the valve guide seals are made from, but I have the light blue ones from the AB kit on my heads (viton?) They have nice little retainer spring. I think the rest of the kit components are same manufacture, allowing for what is or is not included.... and of course, you can't tell the quality of the TTY bolts. No idea who makes those....And bosch kit vs gems....make sure you see the gaskets you need. Those rubber O rings are important for H2O pipes....
Last edited by XRAD; Dec 2, 2019 at 08:49 AM.


