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Truck won't start after Heater Core and Head Gasket replacement

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  #71  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:30 AM
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and double check the route
 
  #72  
Old 08-21-2012, 09:55 AM
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there are two way the belt can be routed one for ACE equipt vehicles and one with out.
 
  #73  
Old 08-21-2012, 06:35 PM
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Okay found the problem. I routed the belt wrong. It runs like a top now. However I did notice that I could hear coolant running through the heater core in the dash(radio off). When hit the throttle I could hear air bubbles in the dash. This is a brand new heater core and my coolant level did not change. I've bled the system of air twice. I guess there is still air in the system? Or I suppose it may take a bit to break in the new heater core? I ran the truck for about 10 mins. The oil is pretty much clear now.
 
  #74  
Old 08-21-2012, 07:19 PM
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Cool.
Glad the belt reroute helped..

Well I bleed it this way..

Unclip the coolant bottle. It will unclip.
Raise it as high as the hoses stretch.

Take of the cap.
Run it at a fast idle for 10 minutes.
The level will lower as the air is purged out.

Then just fill it with antifreeze to the line.

This is how to do the bleeding Discovery I style.

A Discovery I will self bleed as the coolant bottle is the highest point in the cooling system.

You are supposed to use that ill conceived bleed screw.
That may get some air out - it may also introduce air.

Always best to bleed it dynamically - whilst running - in my book

Many will disagree with me and that's OK.
 
  #75  
Old 08-21-2012, 07:23 PM
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OK reread your post.
Yes, you did a static bleed on it with the bleed screw.
Forget that.

Do the Jeff Bleed as last post.
You'll be fine after that.
Let me know.

Run it at about 1,500 or so for 10 minutes with the cap off of the coolant tank.
The tank raised.
Keep the tank raised with a screw driver or huge rag under it.

If your head gaskets are fine then the water fall sound will be gone.
I don't miss mine.

My level in the coolant tank went down about an inch after 10 minutes at 1,500 or so RPM.

That's a lot of air.
 
  #76  
Old 08-21-2012, 07:25 PM
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There is air (or exhaust gas) in the system, and it needs to be bled out what ever works best for you. It likely won't disappear on its own.

By the way, good job. Now that you have spent like 100 hours plus on it, time for some fun. But first the flames must reach high into the night, the searing of meat must be done, distilled beverages all around, and honor given to the Rover gods that will allow you to have maybe 2 hours of off roading before the next item breaks.
 
  #77  
Old 08-22-2012, 01:46 AM
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lol thanks Savannah

Well I bled the air for a 3rd time and the water fall noise was almost totally reduced. I took it on a 15 minute test drive. I only heard the water fall sounds when i started pulling away from my driveway but like I said it was barely noticeable.

My oil seems to be clean now. I changed it again, this time I'm giving Mobil 1 Delvac 15w-40 a try with the 301 oil filter. Oil is still clean after driving. My coolant level is still the same( at the mold line).

The only thing I need to do now is take another look at my shifter lights(or whatever you call it). The red light is not illuminating to tell me which gear im in. I also noticed that the left side of the gauge panel is significantly dimmer. It's very hard to see the coolant temp gauge at night and the RPM gauge is a little dim towards the left. Otherwise the truck feels the same as it did before, it's nice to drive it again. Can notch off head gaskets and heater core from the service list. (knock on wood! )
 
  #78  
Old 08-22-2012, 06:20 AM
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I bet your glad that is finally over
 
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