I was just suggesting the supercharger because that kit looked to be made for the D2 and might require less fabrication then mounting a turbo not made for the D2, but either way I'm betting some fab work will be needed. I hope you make the turbo a reality.

Should we start taking bets on how long it lasts before detonation? I say you get 200 (really fun) miles.

 

Definitely understand that and tconsidered hat route for some time.

Yea, I hope so too. Take all the bets you like! Honestly, I think with some cooling upgrades, cooler spark plugs, bigger injectors, and retarding the timing a little that the engine will be fine. I'd take more bets on how long the trans lasts. Haha

 

Ok, so I was considering how I was going to retard timing while on boost. I'm not positive the scanner I'm looking at can do it, I'm going to call Atlantic British and find out probably tomorrow.

If that doesn't pan out then I'm looking at this box from MSD. I'll call MSD and make sure it will work without one of their ignition boxes, but I think it will be fine. If not, that pretty much leaves me with getting a Megasquirt/AEM/similar, or just crossing my fingers that it doesn't knock

Also, on the headers; I'll obviously have to make my own headers, but do I start with bare flanges or what? Well, I figure it's only slightly more money to get the hedmans, I can run them until I am actually ready to do the turbo build, and then I have some pipe and bends left when I actually make them. Then I can get a couple of these header collectors and stick with an internal wastegate, Or I can re-use the original Hedman collector, have a piece of pipe with the external wastegate, then use a v-band to T28 flange. I like the internal wastegate plan better because it's more compact and there's not much room to work with.

And for those curious, a set of stock used GTR turbos is about $550.

 

Ok, since I did my A/C delete and changed up the oil breather setup I've got some extra room for piping and a couple spots for vacuum lines to hook up for the wategate and BOV as pictured.



Blue is the snorkel running to the turbos, yellow is turbo to the intercooler which is in front of the radiator and then intercooler to the throttle body, and white is how I'm going to move the power steering reservoir. It might be a bit of a tight fit between the engine and the radiator, but I think it will fit fine because I'll run it as 3.25" pipe for the snorkel, y'd out to 2.25" for each of the turbos, then y'd back into 3" for intercooler, then back to the throttle body. Since I'll only be using 2.25" pipe I don't think there will be any issue with clearance for the piping between the radiator and the front of the engine. The MAF sensor will be just before the y split for the turbos and the BOV will be just before the bend into the throttle body. Here's my poorly drawn diagram.

 

Is that small filter part of your oil breather setup?

 

so now its twin turbos

 

Yes indeed, Charlie. Got one on each side and just plugged the breather on the intake.

 

Yep, sure is, drow. I learned that two smaller turbos will be better for low end torque than a single larger turbo.

 

I'm a little late to the party. Have you sourced a tuner to write your engine management?

 

I'm going to call Atlantic British and see if their Lynx scanner can change the ignition timing and fuel map. If not then I'm going to have to ship off the ECU to another company somewhere to at least setup a baseline tune, or convert to a Megasquirt/AEM ECU which I'd really like to avoid.

Also, I changed my mind on MAF placement. I'm now thinking post-BOV so that it doesn't read the air that the BOV releases to atmosphere and so that it reads the correct intake temp post-intercool.