Bad compressor just as i originally suspected. 34.3F center vent at 2100+ rpm. Levels off almost immediately to 47-48 under that and at idle, runs anything between 48 and 68, and i clocked it at 72 too. So it wasnt the speed but the rpm that was causing my cold bursts. duh

Lovely. It's not getting fixed this season.

Mainly because im not taking it apart when its 110 out. I like pain but not that much pain you know.

 

Sorry to hear its the compressor cdm--- was awaiting the prognosis as I am having the same symptoms myself. Is a compressor swap something best left to a pro?

 

It is a straightforward procedure. dont forget the dryer behind the grill too.

 

meh i couldnt wait and since i have the truck back in the shed for some tlc... 25 minutes to take the compressor and dryer out. less with a cool engine (dont be like me, dont do this after you've just idled it to 200f)

179$ for the compressor an 30 for the pressure switch and drier. AZ wanted 380 for the compressor alone.

the old one i could spin with my pinkie.

if i have to call it, 1 hour labor including the refil. easiest vehicle i've ever done

 

wow! great news cdm! gonna tackle the issue soon myself then...

 

2001 Disco II . Same problem while going to Foxwoods last wek. I am thinking that a fresh evac. and recharge will be in order. After 10+ years of 50% or less use in the north east....I feel that a recharge and evac will be the best idea. I had it done to my MB 1999 C280 Sport and it worked wonders.

 

Freon has a habit of escaping through old or seldom used seals. Many cars are now designed to run the AC when in defrost mode, just to keep them in working order over the winter. Vac and refill works for me, at least you know that any air is gone from the system. Of course, it is also true that a really weak compressor will usually only perform at speed, it drops off at idle. As far as how cold the air is - it will always be colder on low than high speed fan, it has more time to chill.