Joemamma, its good to see another Austin Rover!

 

Finally fixed my stereo. I replaced a frustratingly cumbersome Alpine head unit installed by the PO with a Pioneer with bluetooth ($75 open box deal!), bypassed the factory amp, installed passive crossovers, replaced my failed sub amp and built a sealed box for the rear subs. I had replaced the factory ones with a pair of Kicker 6" subs a while back but they really needed a sealed enclosure to work right. It sounds pretty sweet!

 

I rejoined the landrover clan by purchasing a 2004 Discovery SE. Years ago I owned a 1969 Rangerover serial #00000032 but had to get rid of it as my (ex) wife could not cope with the heavy, non-power, steering. Having seen the prices now (I bought it for about £400 back then) I wish I had kept it in a barn!
Anyway, I bought the SE but was given plain keys rather than a keyless remote. I am guessing I have to sell my first born and go to a Rover dealer with the VIN # and order one.
Unless I can buy one from EBAY and find some other way of programming it to match the settings of the car....

 

Went out and braved the North Carolina snow storm. What a joke. But as always the Land Rover never let me down. I was also able to set a side some fears that my treadwrights might not handle well in snow but was pleasantly surprised to see the worked just as well as the AT's I previously had. Anyways I wish these guys had just a brief taste of the German Winters I grew up with, North Carolina gets an inch and the entire state shuts down.

 

So how's the truck driving? Noticing any vibration?

I am, which has me thinking my originals might be toast.

Thanks,
G

 

You can have it done by someone with an autologic computer: http://www.autologic-diagnostics.com...rogramming.pdf or a nanocomm: .

 

My SE came the same way. Just standard keys. After reading all the "Super Lock Issues", "Locking myself inside the rig" "I pushed the button too many times, now my rover has exploded!" etc..etc...involving those fancy push button keys, I've decided that manually locking and unlocking my driver door is the route Im going to stay. Dont need them big city electronic keys anyway....

 

Replaced the drivers side rear axle seal (O-ring) an changed the oil (2 qts 85W140). One thing I did notice is the staked nut that holds the rear bearing on the axle was loose. I have not heard any noises or anything. I replaced the nut and used some blue locktite and staked it well. I have to get in there and replace the crank seal and rear main seal I found out today.

WOOHOOOO, replacing the O-ring didn't fix it. Guess the hub bearing seal is compromised

 

Update, after replacing the coil packs, wires and plugs, I deleted codes and headed to the inspection station. Failed inspection, have to cycle the ecu, by driving a while first.(I have driven Silverado with Duramax diesel for last 10 years and have not gone thru the emission BS). Anyway, now all has been cycled and ready for re-inspection tomorrow.

 

Ordered new parts for cat back exhaust, can't wait for the weather to break a bit so I can install. No more rattle from the muffler, hangers and only one hole for the exhaust to leak from (the intended hole in the back!).