What did you do with your DII today?
#502
#503
I have had a very small coolant leak since I swapped in the 180 t-stat a month ago, so yesterday I put a pressure tester on the system. Found two small leaks: one at an upper t-stat outlet and the other at the tiny plastic pipe on the top of the radiator. Replacing the OE clamps with worm-drive clamps stopped both.
Then I see a tiny drip coming from below the throttle body. Yep, it's the heater plate. Guess I'll be ordering a gasket kit from Atlantic-British today.
Also cleaned the MAF with the recommended CRC cleaner. Last week I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, so figured it was a good time to do the MAF. I let it dry for a good hour, re-installed and no codes when I started the truck.
I then greased the rear drive shaft, set all four tires at 36 PSI and gave it a quick wash.
Took it for a short drive and I swear it is running smoother, though that's probably all in my head.
Then I see a tiny drip coming from below the throttle body. Yep, it's the heater plate. Guess I'll be ordering a gasket kit from Atlantic-British today.
Also cleaned the MAF with the recommended CRC cleaner. Last week I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, so figured it was a good time to do the MAF. I let it dry for a good hour, re-installed and no codes when I started the truck.
I then greased the rear drive shaft, set all four tires at 36 PSI and gave it a quick wash.
Took it for a short drive and I swear it is running smoother, though that's probably all in my head.
#505
#506
#507
Finished up some changes to the wiring. I got sick of running wires all over the place to charge up electronics for the kids so I cut the wiring to the factory lighter and direct wired the GPS to a socket behind the dash, running the lead through the vent above the head unit. I then wired the factory lighter direct to the battery and added one at the back of the center console. Now I can charge things when the car isn't running and DVD's won't shut off when I stop for gas.
Next I changed up the winch wiring. The factory wiring that came with my winch was 25 sq. mm, which is just a little bigger than a #4. Pretty thin for 400 amps. I picked up some #2 SGX battery cable and lugs and replaced the cables. I also moved the solenoid close to the battery so that my constantly powered lead is very short and has nothing to short against. In the process I also wired in an HF remote ($25 - worth a shot) and added a switch on the dash to supply power to the controls. Keeps the winch from running if the remote gets triggered by something else. I also made up a new holder for the corded remote socket so I have options. The wireless remote works awesome by the way.
Next I changed up the winch wiring. The factory wiring that came with my winch was 25 sq. mm, which is just a little bigger than a #4. Pretty thin for 400 amps. I picked up some #2 SGX battery cable and lugs and replaced the cables. I also moved the solenoid close to the battery so that my constantly powered lead is very short and has nothing to short against. In the process I also wired in an HF remote ($25 - worth a shot) and added a switch on the dash to supply power to the controls. Keeps the winch from running if the remote gets triggered by something else. I also made up a new holder for the corded remote socket so I have options. The wireless remote works awesome by the way.
#510
In the past week I've replaced the throttle body heater, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air filter box and replaced the air filter, installed the soft-spring thermostat, drained and filled the coolant, had the driveshaft rebuilt and installed it, removed and cleaned the blower motor, fixed a vacuum leak, removed the center console to free up the transfer case selector lever, and hit myself in the face with a screwdriver. All in all, a pretty productive few days.