What did you do with your DII today?
I have had a very small coolant leak since I swapped in the 180 t-stat a month ago, so yesterday I put a pressure tester on the system. Found two small leaks: one at an upper t-stat outlet and the other at the tiny plastic pipe on the top of the radiator. Replacing the OE clamps with worm-drive clamps stopped both.
Then I see a tiny drip coming from below the throttle body. Yep, it's the heater plate. Guess I'll be ordering a gasket kit from Atlantic-British today.
Also cleaned the MAF with the recommended CRC cleaner. Last week I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, so figured it was a good time to do the MAF. I let it dry for a good hour, re-installed and no codes when I started the truck.
I then greased the rear drive shaft, set all four tires at 36 PSI and gave it a quick wash.
Took it for a short drive and I swear it is running smoother, though that's probably all in my head.
Then I see a tiny drip coming from below the throttle body. Yep, it's the heater plate. Guess I'll be ordering a gasket kit from Atlantic-British today.
Also cleaned the MAF with the recommended CRC cleaner. Last week I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, so figured it was a good time to do the MAF. I let it dry for a good hour, re-installed and no codes when I started the truck.

I then greased the rear drive shaft, set all four tires at 36 PSI and gave it a quick wash.
Took it for a short drive and I swear it is running smoother, though that's probably all in my head.
Finished up some changes to the wiring. I got sick of running wires all over the place to charge up electronics for the kids so I cut the wiring to the factory lighter and direct wired the GPS to a socket behind the dash, running the lead through the vent above the head unit. I then wired the factory lighter direct to the battery and added one at the back of the center console. Now I can charge things when the car isn't running and DVD's won't shut off when I stop for gas.
Next I changed up the winch wiring. The factory wiring that came with my winch was 25 sq. mm, which is just a little bigger than a #4. Pretty thin for 400 amps. I picked up some #2 SGX battery cable and lugs and replaced the cables. I also moved the solenoid close to the battery so that my constantly powered lead is very short and has nothing to short against. In the process I also wired in an HF remote ($25 - worth a shot) and added a switch on the dash to supply power to the controls. Keeps the winch from running if the remote gets triggered by something else. I also made up a new holder for the corded remote socket so I have options. The wireless remote works awesome by the way.
Next I changed up the winch wiring. The factory wiring that came with my winch was 25 sq. mm, which is just a little bigger than a #4. Pretty thin for 400 amps. I picked up some #2 SGX battery cable and lugs and replaced the cables. I also moved the solenoid close to the battery so that my constantly powered lead is very short and has nothing to short against. In the process I also wired in an HF remote ($25 - worth a shot) and added a switch on the dash to supply power to the controls. Keeps the winch from running if the remote gets triggered by something else. I also made up a new holder for the corded remote socket so I have options. The wireless remote works awesome by the way.
In the past week I've replaced the throttle body heater, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air filter box and replaced the air filter, installed the soft-spring thermostat, drained and filled the coolant, had the driveshaft rebuilt and installed it, removed and cleaned the blower motor, fixed a vacuum leak, removed the center console to free up the transfer case selector lever, and hit myself in the face with a screwdriver. All in all, a pretty productive few days.



