I replaced the high pressure hose/metal line that goes from the ACE pump to the valve block. Had to source the parts from the UK. New pipe is in two sections as you'd never get a whole pipe back in there without bending the crap out of it. Overall not a hard job. Now I've got a functioning system again, no warning chime and people can drive behind me without getting sprayed with fluid.

 

I finally compiled a “small” maintenance To Do list as a reminder of what I need to complete on Myrtle.
I keep the list on my iPhone:
- mount a fire extinguisher on rear door
- power bleed brake system with Nanocom
- check right rear brake sensor (possibly 3 Amigos culprit)
- complete Big 5 cable conversion
- fix or replace groaning power steering pump and leaking box
- install 60lbs/16” gas prop(s) to front hood
- flush heater core
- install oil catch can
- repair small cracks in windshield
- install new a-pillar cover set
- replace NGK doughnut and hardware on rear propshaft (or install Disco 1 propshaft)
- replace universal joints in rear propshaft; get balanced at hi & low speeds
- install Disco 1 transmission pan & dipstick
- remove, disassemble, clean out, regrease, seal & reset xyz Switch
- repair stuck wiper switch at column
- fix ignition key getting stuck in barrel
- install safe in cubby box (purchased- await arrival)
- remove stock aux light relay assembly with require with relay and latching switch for bumper fog lights
- replace stock panhard rod with sturdier model
- replace rear shocks with TF179
- add Disco 1 rear spring plates for 1/2” extra height
- replace cracked rear door latch cover
- add resistors in parallel to brake lights for LED bulbs (cruise control system fix)
- swap rear turn indicators light assemblies with reverse lights (like on the D1)
- add magnetic oil pan drain plug at next oil change
- repair right rear passenger door clicking noise when closing/opening
- install metal covers to rear bumper turn signal assemblies

 

 

I found a guy out here in England who makes the cubby safe to spec for the cost of 65 pounds ($85) just like the Tuff-Rok ones on ebay. Same quality build but at a lower cost than Tuff-Rok. It also has his brand stamped on it "Wild 4x4"



I bought one 2 weeks ago and I'm waiting to receive it. I'll post pictures of my install.

 

 

 

I was thinking that to but for my LR3

 

Getting the parts for my 2000 D2, and possibly some courage to replace....

-leaking valve cover gaskets (all ready have the 8mm 12 point socket). Get some high heat bolt retainer
-plugged PCV valve
-older ignition wires
-and perhaps a bottle of whisky as celebration afterwards

Since the top of the engine will be off, might as well change a few bits

 

While you have the upper intake off, you should check and fix the injector buckets and filters. PCV is easy, just be gentle dropping the new one in. I only had trouble with getting one wire on my coils with my intake on, with it off you'll have no trouble at all

 

Whats the big 5 conversion?