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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 08:22 AM
  #6431  
stillruns's Avatar
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From: Bham
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The Noco is awesome.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 10:05 AM
  #6432  
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From: Amherstburg Ontario
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Does anyone have experience with the p38 headers? Do they bolt in spot of our d2 manifolds? Are they actually any better? Looking at the flange to pipe junction appears restrictive. I suppose I could weld and grind smooth.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 11:02 AM
  #6433  
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From: Beaumont, TX
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They’ll bolt up to the engine, but they won’t fit due to how they drop down vs the D2’s setup without some pretty serious modifications.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2019 | 04:47 PM
  #6434  
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From: Michigan
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Threw the roof rack and light bar on the 03.



40° here today, so l messed with the beast. I've added about 2K to the odometer, since buying.

Brian.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 10:08 AM
  #6435  
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From: Vancouver Island
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While I was doing an oil change on my '01 D2, I changed the transfer box oil as well. I noticed that all of the bolts supporting the inspection port were weeping. Besides, this is first time I did this, and the location of the fill port is a pain. Used Royal Purple 75-90 synthetic, with Permatex RTV gasket maker and thread locker.

Also picked up an early 1970's wooden K-Mart mechanic creeper for $10 at a local pawnshop. After a light sanding and some linseed oil, with some dry grease in the wheels, the unit looks really good.

The axles and brakes are good. Next tasks. Diff oil change, and a combo spark plug wires, PCV and cover gasket renewal.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 03:39 PM
  #6436  
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From: Amherstburg Ontario
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I stripped 1 headbolt 😡😢. I obviously should of pulled the sai fitting first to align my socket and breaker bar better.

Anyone have any good ideas how to remove this damn bolt? Should I weld an old socket on it? They are torqued down crazy hard. I snapped 1 extension already. My impact wouldn’t even touch them. I had to use a 2’ breaker bar and lots of force. ( I’m no weakling- I’m over 250lbs lol ) I was actually afraid of snapping the block off my engine stand.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 07:05 PM
  #6437  
The_OGCJR's Avatar
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From: austin texas
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Originally Posted by Fastercat

I stripped 1 headbolt 😡😢. I obviously should of pulled the sai fitting first to align my socket and breaker bar better.

Anyone have any good ideas how to remove this damn bolt? Should I weld an old socket on it? They are torqued down crazy hard. I snapped 1 extension already. My impact wouldn’t even touch them. I had to use a 2’ breaker bar and lots of force. ( I’m no weakling- I’m over 250lbs lol ) I was actually afraid of snapping the block off my engine stand.
i had same problem when I did my heads...after I rounded the bolt, I used a bolt extraction socket. Beat on good, then used a 5 foot cheater pipe on my breaker...
Engine was in the car though so you’d have to wedge it somewhere
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 07:45 PM
  #6438  
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From: Augusta, GA
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I have had luck with the sacrifice socket. The almost fits SAE socket that I hit with the BFH to get it seated. Than get the bolt off and throw it and the socket in the trash.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 11:59 PM
  #6439  
mollusc's Avatar
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From: Staten Island, NY
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there are some good suggestions in the short thread regarding my similar situation: https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...estions-78704/
 
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Old Feb 23, 2019 | 04:23 AM
  #6440  
The Deputy's Avatar
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From: Michigan
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Are you using a good quality 6 point impact socket?

That doesn't look that rounded off to me, still plenty of corners on that bolt head. Do not use chrome sockets for these types of torque applications, they flex and distort under these types of pressures. Try heating the bolt, not the aluminum, and let cool, while cooling hit it with WD40, heat again and soak again with WD40, once totally cool, wack it with a heavy punch and hammer, then use your air gun on a medium setting (with a quality 6-point impact socket) and let the gun gently "hammer" on the bolt. This vibration will usually break the static tention of the surrounding corrosion.

If this doesn't work...C4 would be my next plan of action.

Brian.
 
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