Considered rivets, but I'd prefer to retain the ability to remove the lamp guards while away from home (and a drill). If a bulb burns out, having to drill out a rivet and then re-apply it, I wouldn't be able to do that easily unless I carried around a drill all the time. I do travel with a tool kit, so a bolt would be preferred. I'm going to try and find flanged threaded inserts that I can JB weld into place.

 

@boston4 thanks for the input! That’s great to know ahead of time.

My truck sat outside during the winter this year with the PO without being driven, and also had a full tank of fuel in it. When I bought it the PO had to drain the fuel tank because the truck was running rough. New fuel, and it ran perfectly.

As mentioned above I’ve been sorting through various codes on the Ultraguage (only 2 have caused CEL’s - MAF & not tightening the gas cap enough... lol

Yesterday I got a P0430 code: bad passenger side catalytic converter (or at least bad reading from the rear 02).

Searching the forum seemed to reveal that P0430 is almost always a bad cat, but the code can be caused by a bad 02 as well.

I had a local shop just install a new center muffler (mine was rusting away, of course) and I could pretty affordable have them do new high flow cats and install the two 02 sensors I have.

Is it worth ponying up and buying the two front 02 sensors as well to do at the same time? Anyone have experience trying this out?

Since it ran on old fuel for a while, is there anything else I should inspect or plan to have replaced? Fuel pump (those seem to last a long time from what I’ve read), injectors, etc.? 154,000 on the truck, 80k on the motor.

today I’ll be swapping my MAF with a working used one to see if that affects the code, and replacing one of the Plastic SAI tubes that broke. Maybe a car wash too if I can take a long lunch... Love this thread!

 

Ordered a Nissens radiator from Rock Auto. Seems pass side either end tank or pin hole in fins sprung a leak two days ago. Hoses appear to be in good shape and are roughly 1.5 years old and not showing any signs of needing to be replaced at this time. I've been running Dexcool which I know is not the best idea...what is the preferred coolant to run and flush procedure? Thanks in advance, I know it's a beat to death topic..

 

I have been using Prestone antifreeze for the past 4 years with no problem, and Rock Auto is a decent place for some parts as well. To drain the rad, there is a bolt right above the . Just undo it. Since you will be changing your rad, you might as well check if the water pump is leaking.

 

@whowa004 just did this myself it is more time consuming than hard.

• Drain the rad
• Put the lower hose back on
• Put a garden hose the the expansion tank
• Put the hose on low and let it run until clear water comes out the upper hose
• Close the cooling system
• Top off with water
• Run up to temp for a few minutes although it should not matter heater on max hot
• Cool down
• Drain and repeat

Once the water comes out clear you need to do this twice more with distilled water -you can do the whole thing with distilled water if the water in your area has a lot of minerals in it.
Flush your new rad before install - just water is fine

Then fill with coolant as recommended, you can put some straight AF if you are concerned about the mix but I have never had an issue

 

It may have been longer work, but trust me, you will smile every time you drive it. And likely know a little more about your rig as well.

 

I looked Myrtle with dust and dirt and pollen all over her. been up on jack stands for a month for brakes and doing top end V8 engine work.
I have to now grind off a rounded rear caliper bolt so I can install the new calipers, bleed the brakes, mount the wheels and torque the Lug nuts so I can get Myrtle off of my safety recalled 6 ton Harbor Freight stands.

 

I've been putting up with stiff steering for far too long. I put in a new power steering pump only to find that it made no difference at all. Crap. Turned out to be the steering damper had instead of giving up and not working decided to get super stiff and that is what was making the wheel so hard to turn. New part on the way

 

Finished installing new connecting rod bearing shells. Reinstalled the oil pan. Finished replacing most of the rusted A/C pipes going to the evap/dryer. Installed the oil cooler from my parts truck. Reinstalled both exhaust manifolds. Finished installing inline thermostat. Replaced the original PCV with the Hyundai one. Dropped both driveshafts and the exhaust and removed the central console, parking brake, and shifter mechanism. Started building a cradle for the transfer case in preparation for swapping it for the locking one from my parts truck.
Busy day.

 

i will take the DISCO to the car wash and buy it air fresner because the loud EXHAUST turned out to be missing nuts/bolts on the manifold . I was expecting worse. So that was a big relief. But still it leaks about pint of antifreez for each 30 miles. coming from somewhere behind the engine..