Thanks @Best4x4 it was a vacuum line for the SAI system. Fixed.

Just noticed my front driveshaft is missing weights. It looks original, although it does have zerk fittings and is grease-able.

How difficult is the driveshaft replacement job? Something I can do myself in my driveway with hand tools?

 

Driveshaft replacement is pretty easy - it's just 8 bolts holding it on, and the kit from Lucky8 comes with all new hardware. I did it with hand tools though I might suggest picking up the Lucky8 driveshaft tool, which is basically just a narrow socket to make it a little easier.

You'll want at least one jack stand, just to get one of the front tires off the ground - leave the transmission in neutral and set the parking brake. Then, while you're working under the truck, you can spin the front wheel with your foot so that all four bolts all the way around are accessible.

I did end up using an air hammer, as the driveshaft had fused to the transfer case, but I could've gotten it off with a hammer and chisel as well. Hopefully you've less rust to contend with.

 

@boston4 seems reasonable. I have some rust to contend with, but it's not been a big deal for the work I've done so far. Hopefully it's not too bad.

After reading a bunch of reviews I ended up going with this driveshaft from British Parts of Utah. I've heard and read great things about them. I called them and they were awesome on the phone. https://www.britishpartsofutah.com/D...p/rcd2fds2.htm

I live in central time zone. Lucky 8 was closed and I want to get the driveshaft in asap before putting a good bit of miles on the truck this weekend. With the front driveshaft failure being so common and my driveshaft looking factory I wanted to get it done asap. I did grease the front driveshaft about 500 miles ago, so I know it's lubricated. It does vibrate pretty good at around 70mph. I thought it was my tires, but no weights on the front driveshaft makes more sense for the vibration I'm feeling.

 

I got a heavy duty drive shaft from British Parts of Utah 2 years or about 20k miles ago. Zero vibrations on the freeway. Do not forget to grease it with every oil change.

 

Will do. They had excellent customer service. The two year warranty was also one of the better ones I saw.

 

Oil change to 10/40 Royal Purple HPS increased zinc for flat tappet engines & Mobile 301
Startup pressure 52
188.6 Pressure 18-20 psi at 650 rpm 40 psi at 1500 - 1700

Greased everything including my rear drive shaft which has grease u-joints
Terrafirma track bars end rubber is starting to fail 3 out of 4 points
Put my right horn button back on after it popped off - go figure

Getting ready to load up for a 4 day 500+ mile trip this week end

 

Had my driveshaft from BP of Utah installed. Haven’t been able to drive on the interstate yet to see if the vibration is gone because my passenger front window regulator gave up the ghost today. Got a regulator ordered to fix it this weekend.

Ive for a vibration only noticeable at idle. Fairly confident it could be one of the pulleys, as that’s the only thing that makes sense at the moment. Trying to diagnose that.

 

Had a fun day, opened the hood to check my oil level after the oil change to discover my rad hoses were flat.

Popped the cap to check hose re-inflated, proceed to check the usual suspects discovered a small bubble on the upper rad hose looked like it could be a heat only leaked sure enough moisture under the hose in that area. No biggy grab my URO trail spare pop it on, start the Disco everything looks good warm up to 183 and off to the grocery store. Get teh few things I needed come out a drips under the disco. Pop the hood and sure enough the plastic T has cracked, drive home temps never exceeded 190. Replace the T with my URO trail spare top the coolant backup up and go for a drive all is good in Disco land. I will need to check in the Am for compressed hoses and order a good upper. Going to the inline mod after this trip

 

@zski128 and I picked what must have been the hottest day of the year in MA to swap some wheels - he wanted 16s for an overland build, and I wanted 18s for my beach/ski rig. Thanks again Rich!

Awesome meeting another forum guy and the truck is looking better than ever:

 

if you had the inline thermostat you wouldn’t have to deal with this plastic tee lol lol

that tee sometimes people crank on it. It just needs to be snug nothing more.