What did you do with your DII today?
#7581
#7582
Checked oil pressure looks pretty solid, post here with deals https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...51/#post731043
#7583
2 years after being told that I needed to replace my watts linkage, I finally did it! It only took 5 days and a nut splitter to get it all done, although one day was for paint to dry and another day was a trip up to Rovers North because I ordered the wrong bushings to begin with.
I thought it would make a bigger difference, but it just smoothed out some vibrations and made bumps much quieter.
Next up are sway bar links and bushings, then springs and shocks.
I thought it would make a bigger difference, but it just smoothed out some vibrations and made bumps much quieter.
Next up are sway bar links and bushings, then springs and shocks.
#7584
I completed the swap of my anti roll bar sway links to the Lucky8 disconnectable sway bars, Terrafirma draglink/track rods from the factory equipment,OME steering damper, learned how to grease the LR "Ball Joints" ie tie rods, made a mess after opening the grease gun under pressure, put the wheels back on to their proper torque settings for the first time, and took her off the jack stands. I proceeded to start er up and back out of the driveway only to find that I goofed something up and the steering wheel is cocked to the left. After being stupid and stubborn I was able to finally burn/push out the new red bushings on the Terrafirma pandhard rods and replaced them with the orange polybush bushings. My fiance informed me that I was an idiot for wanting consistent color/stiffness in my suspension/steering, and after struggling with the whole thing only to question the sizing of the Polybush panhard bushing compatibility with the TerraFirma Heavy Duty 03-04 panhard rod. Slight chance here, but does anyone know if one was to push out the panhard bushings on the Terrafirma panhard rod for an 03'-04 was I suppose to hacksaw the metal bushing retaining ring? If so great, I already have the new ones pressed so that will be a treat to assess the risk of installation.... My plan is to install the panhard in the morning and take it immediately to get aligned.
Either way, another successful round of Disco work. I learned a lot, put my hands to work, and as always enjoyed fixing stuff before it breaks and after it breaks.
Either way, another successful round of Disco work. I learned a lot, put my hands to work, and as always enjoyed fixing stuff before it breaks and after it breaks.
#7585
Go Meyle HD for sway bar links.
For better articulation (next to having removable sway bar links) some of the Brits with lifted Disco 2s install the slightly longer LR3/Disco 3 front sway bar links on the front and the Disco 2’s slightly longer fronts links are installed to the rear.
For better articulation (next to having removable sway bar links) some of the Brits with lifted Disco 2s install the slightly longer LR3/Disco 3 front sway bar links on the front and the Disco 2’s slightly longer fronts links are installed to the rear.
The following 2 users liked this post by JUKE179r:
Richard Gallant (05-28-2020),
whowa004 (05-29-2020)
#7586
Having a good time crawling around under the Rover, playing mechanic. Finished fixing a rear output shaft leak today. A job which should have taken hours ended up taking days. Originally ordered just the seal. Got to the seal and noticed the flange was done. A nice big groove most likely explains why my leak got so big! Ordered the repair kit on Saturday and received it last night. And since I had the rear taken apart, i also put on a new rotoflex as a preventative measure. I'll carry the old donut and bolts as a spare if ever needed! Fingers crossed that the leak is gone for at least another 50k miles
#7587
Replaced my rusted AC pipe and have working AC now (assuming it didn’t all leak out overnight - knock on wood).
Speaking of rusted AC components, my condenser fan is completely seized, as are the bolts that attach it. I know the rusted fan is pretty common, but not sure about rusted fasteners. What do people usually do in this situation? Cut out the plastic shroud?
My truck is running pretty cool (188 on highways, up to maybe 194 in traffic) as I have a new thermostat, Dorman HD fan, and severe duty fan clutch. Does that little electric condenser fan really move all that much air? For now I’ll just keep an eye on coolant temps in traffic and cut out the AC as necessary but I’m guessing I should aim to address it if only to improve AC performance.
Any thoughts?
Speaking of rusted AC components, my condenser fan is completely seized, as are the bolts that attach it. I know the rusted fan is pretty common, but not sure about rusted fasteners. What do people usually do in this situation? Cut out the plastic shroud?
My truck is running pretty cool (188 on highways, up to maybe 194 in traffic) as I have a new thermostat, Dorman HD fan, and severe duty fan clutch. Does that little electric condenser fan really move all that much air? For now I’ll just keep an eye on coolant temps in traffic and cut out the AC as necessary but I’m guessing I should aim to address it if only to improve AC performance.
Any thoughts?
Regarding my seized condenser fan, I'm cautiously optimistic that I can just leave it broken. I drove around town for a while in 80 degree weather with my AC on, and the temps are actually completely normal - 188-190 while driving around town, bumping up to about 194 at red lights. It does sound like the Hayden severe duty fan clutch is making more noise and pulling more air than normal, but that's kind of the point of the fan clutch - it's keeping the temps right where I want them.
Wow I'm thrilled.
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (05-29-2020)
#7588
The following 2 users liked this post by The_OGCJR:
Richard Gallant (05-29-2020),
whowa004 (06-02-2020)
#7589
Had an O Crap moment, flashing M & S, E-brake ABS and Hill Descent lights on start. Shut down M&S go away the rest stay.
Pull out the Foxwell - Right rear ABS Valve open error
Clear codes restart they are still there
Short drive still there
Run the ABS pump test lights instantly go out and stayed out
Did a run test hill descent, hard brake etc all is good
Discovered my fan clutch is dying it does not really lockup right even at 201. Spins the same hot or cold, at least it is cheap and easy to fix.
Pull out the Foxwell - Right rear ABS Valve open error
Clear codes restart they are still there
Short drive still there
Run the ABS pump test lights instantly go out and stayed out
Did a run test hill descent, hard brake etc all is good
Discovered my fan clutch is dying it does not really lockup right even at 201. Spins the same hot or cold, at least it is cheap and easy to fix.
#7590
The following 3 users liked this post by MrValingo: