How'd that go? I'll be doing the same in the next few weeks

 

it would not have been too bad if I didn't have to remove the defective original interlock solenoid. Getting access to all the fasteners was a test of patience. I would suggest leaving the original hi/lo cable in place and just remove the shift mechanism. Get a rivet puller and 3/16 rivets to put it back to original.

 

Installed a Webasto block heater in place of the jack stand compartment. It runs on gasoline, I tap the gas with a pickup tube from the bottom of the tank through the fuel pump top (installed the new fuel pump while in there). It preheats the engine and the cabin as well. Now we can go to Tahoe in winter and sleep in the car. In addition I can keep the 10W40 for winter.

 

Working on the brakes now. Have extended hoses​​​ on the way. In the meantime replaced all metal lines, replaced master cylinder and flushed new fluid through.

I could not get my ancient 12k winch to fit, so I got a new 9500 one from the finest source of all things heehee.

After brakes are in good shape will move on to the power steering. Everything is leaking, so will start aquiring lines, pump, box etc. Slow and steady.

The plastic housing on the headlights where they attach to truck are falling apart, so looking for new ones. I like the square look, but need to get it safe first before more fun stuff.

Pictured are my "no front bumper fascia" twins. The tracker doesn't need a winch because it doesn't get stuck. 🤣 I have very little off road skills so I knew I'd need it for the discovery haha.




​​​

 

Why did you decide to replace all the metal brake lines? Rust? I'm confused too because the metal brake lines in the pic don't look new (although the master cylinder is nice and shiny). I'd think it'd be a PITA to replace the lines from the modulator to the wheels, especially to the rear wheels.

 

Having just done this (the connectors on the old hard lines were stripped and could not be loosened) I can confirm that it's an annoying job to replace all the hard lines. Adding to the frustration is that all of the plastic retaining clips will break, meaning that you have to come up with a workaround (zip ties, in my case) to keep the lines from rubbing after you've installed them.

 

The ones below the "waistline" were rusted out. Where I live, lines rust out, fuel and brake and transmission cooler and power steering cooler. Now it's the first thing I do when I get a new project, any suspicious rusty line gets replaced, especially along the frame and between axles.
​​​​​​I got my tracker and accord wagon almost for free due to fuel and brake lines all rotted out, the previous owners got a quotes from shops to do them and they had heart attacks. The tracker was hard to adapt what I could get to what was on it. Random Parts for that thing are so hard to find!

Rusty lines are going to be putting my kids through college haha

 

Picked up a set of four 16" 'Mirage" ANR4848 wheels in the classifieds. This will give me one for the spare, which is currently the "Stratos" NTC6980. I actually have four of the "Stratos" wheels, but was waiting until I snagged enough to have five matching of either type. I will be selling the Stratos set now I guess, or looking for another Disco II to put them on :-)

 

I have to say, I'm very impressed with myself. I was scrolling on Amazon and found a 6886c head unit where, like the stock head unit, the display was larger than the single din insert itself. I was able to get everything connected, and yes I did make a new wire harness and not chop up the old one lol. The only modification I had to do was trim the plastic down on the lower side where the stock head unit sat.

I'm running the stock amplifier and speakers, so the only issue I am having is getting the volume up. If I run the speakers to the ISO connector on the back of the head unit, this is 'double' amplification, with this process I get extreme static. Running the speaker wires to RCA cables I get no static but lower volume. I did try a 'hi' 'lo' converter made for cars that have stock amplifiers and was almost getting no volume at all. I stuck with the RCA cables to the back of the head unit for now, I figured a slightly lower volume might not be a bad thing for my ears.

I have to say install is pretty effing clean and looks like it almost belongs, not like those external 13 inch screens.


angled down a bit but doesnt bother me

 

I installed these air vents on both sides of the rear windows. I actually bought them for camping when sleeping inside the car in order to get fresh air and to keep bugs out. Also, I leave them on when the car is parked outside. Winters can be pretty wet here, so no moisture can build up. Made from aluminum and powder coated, solid construction, can be easily installed or taken out by sliding down the windows.