It’s not just LR that uses this system. It probably works really well for 8-10 years. After that the manufacturers don’t care.

 

This is an increasing true and bothersome statement. All those new transmissions, t-cases, diffs and hubs that have "lifetime" fluid/lubricant. All that actually means is they consider the car "end of life" when the fluid needs changed. If you plan to actually drive the car 2,3,400K miles like we all aspire too, stick to your dads maintenance schedules.

 

I would say it applies more to the plastics than the fluids. Many of the oils are now full synthetic which will last the lifetime. Our D2's came filled with full syn diff and tcase fluids and should never need changing. We typically run industrial machinery for 3-5 years 24-7 without oil changes. Full syn fluids don't typically suffer the same viscosity breakdown that traditional oils do and they have a higher heat resistance. Plastics on the other hand - much worse. Wide range though across manufacturers. MB is not as affected, LR, BMW, Chevy and Nissan have horrible plastics.

 

Sorry, but not so much.....Here's some "common" knowledge from within the Automotive industry. The Industrial world is a completely different world, and the lubricant technologies do not always directly correlate

 

We will agree to have a difference of opinion.

 

Cool... for those willing to consider information from highly educated sources and leaders of the industry, here's another one on the subject from a couple guys that know more than most of us could ever dream of concerning lubricants in the automotive world

 

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

I like the discussion around minute 16:00 where they talked about the history of dropping ZDDP content in oils, why it happened, and how it affected flat tappet engines.

 

I love geeking out watching the stuff on his channel, tons of valuable, experiment and real world proven automotive based info.... http://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

 

The passenger side trim was cracked and the driver side flew off in the freeway the other day. I ordered some eBay trim for 30 bucks to replace them. It took several hours to figure out the mounting tabs were on backwards but we got it after that. Looks so much better.

Also had to replace my brake booster. Managed to find one on ebay. It showed up a couple of days ago and was an easy swap. Brakes are so much better now.

Next on the list is a bad wheel speed sensor.

 

Yeah, been following these guys, Dave figured out how to address the defective timing covers (aside of finding a good one), and Lake has dispelled many oil myths with lab work and hard facts. I especially like the info on how ALL oil additives are snake oil and do more harm than good. Also how too much ZDDP is harmful, especially in additive form. Plus, if an oil has a lot of detergent (like calcium), it negates any extra ZDDP anyway. What I took away, pertaining to our engines, is that a good break-in oil should be used on a new engine (I just rebuilt a 4.6 for mine, going to use "Driven"), but after that, any quality everyday oil sb fine, and the high zinc oils can be counter-productive since they're made for different applications (like diesel). Plus, we don't have high valve spring pressures requiring anything special. If I end up eating a cam, it'll likely be from poor manufacturing, not the lack of zinc. I also like the new Valvoline restore/protect oil since our engines run so dirty, but they don't make it in 10w30/40 which is what I'd like to run. I might still give it a try in 5w30 since I'm not in an excessively hot climate.