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I'm wiring auxiliary rear work lights and a drip rail mounted light bar. Using Hella Valuefit LED work lights (from Rovers North purchased a while ago) and Valuefit LED lights for the front light bar. The front light bar is currently being fabricated by my son's steel manufacturing business, so I'm working on the rear lights right now. I have from Rover Guy 2 CC switches ready to go, having removed the cruise switch cover and replaced them with the fog lamp cover. 4 wires come out of the switch (I got the switches with the factory plugs).
I know the green (slot 1) and white (slot 4) (may be yellow-somewhat faded), are connected when the switch is activated by testing for continuity. I believe the red wire (slot 2) is for the green illumination when the headlights are on which I plan to splice into another binnacle switch wire for that. Black wire is ??? what (slot 5). I assume it is ground, but not sure. Also not sure what wire is used to show the lights are on by illuminating the orange indicator built into the switch. Cruise Control switch with Fog light cap. Wires numbered 1-5 left to right, with 3 being empty. Green-1, Red-2, yellow (or white-faded?)-4, Black-5
Since the work lights did not come with any wiring harness, I got a Nilights wiring harness kit from Amazon. Has everything needed, relay, inline fuses, all connected with spade connectors and covered with a durable plastic sleeve.
The switch they included is here: Nilights illuminated rocker switch, to be replaced by Discovery CC switch. It has 3 wires, red, white and black. Red and white are connected when the switch is activated.
I would think that the red wire on the CC switch illuminates the switch, the black wire on the CC is ground, and green and white would become the red and white on the Nilight rocker switch? I'll have this figured out and wired so that when the light bar is back from the fabricator it will be easier to wire it.
When I set this up on my last D2 and made a custom relay/fuse box, I too used CC switches with different fronts. However, I had pig tails for each switch for constant for them to be illuminated with the lights, load, ground and switched juice.
The switches themselves are extremely easy to pin out if you take them apart.