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Still had wet front carpets both sides , soooo..... Oil based waterproof coating applied both sides. Sunroof drains clean and functioning, door seals replaced with new, top corners of windshield/gutters sealed, wiper gutter sealed, and drilled drains into bottom of door hinge pillars. Hopefully, this solves the leaks.... Will leave out my new black carpets until proven no leaks....
new output flange seal installed. tap it in gently with the flange shaft slinger lip. But note, it is not home yet. Then drive it home gently with a 2" PVC pipe otherwise the flange slinger will rub it.. Touch of grease on the new seal to lube it. There was no play in the bearing. Also, I checked the Hi/Low switch because I could not get the HDC to work. Switch is fine, so I cleaned it and reinstalled. 3/4 wrench needed for removal. Easy to get to from the bottom with the shaft out.
Replaced left rear door lock. Easy job. Just have to lift the frame like in the pic. The lock that was sticking was a used part a PO put in. Had junk yard script on it, and I think it probably was from an accident vehicle, seemed way too tight. Anyway, the one I put in was perfect, clean, and works just fine. 60$ including all links, cable, screws, and inside pull handle! Once you have the frame up, easy to get to the two green link locks. Undo the three lock screws, and the unit just drops down and slides out. I adjusted the frame and striker so that the top door jamb seal is now compressed like the bottom of the seal.
I was a little disappointed in the fit of the new "OEM" driver door seal. It was too long and I had to trim about 1" off. Also, it had a small air gap at top where the A pillar frame angle is, and I had to use a 1/4" piece of foam to fill this. I bought an older version NOS "OEM" seal for passenger door and that fit perfectly....both had LR labels and numbers....
A note on the driveshaft seal.....no more leak. I tested the the original flange, and it seated fairly tight against the shaft shoulder. The new 60$ flange off ebay just rocked a bit on the shaft shoulder when seated all the way dow.n. So I clocked the flange spline by spline until I found the sweet spot where it seemed to seat the best. I'm also pretty sure I did not put the diveshaft back into same orientation on to the flange. Went for a 20 mile drive. Nearly no vibrations to 50 while accelerating, minimal vibrations on decel. Much better overall and I don't think it will bother me when driving......
Another stupid design, the rear center seat belt finisher! So I wanted to change out the black one for my gray spare (my black one disintegrated at the screw mounting holes). Oooops, the seat belt retracted. No getting the sucker back out unless released from the housing lock. So out with the tensioner. Pop off the urinal shaped cover, then push out the two set pins and release the secondary cover. This cover holds the gears and set weight. Careful! don't lose anything. Pay attention to part orientation. I had to clock the medium sized nylon gear little 180 degree opposite pegs, to get the alignment correct on reassembly. Now for the cover... It has a pop out belt guide(which is split so you can exchange this one pretty easily over the belt), but forget trying to find the seat bottom belt bolt. It's buried in there! So I sliced the 'new' gray finisher between the screw holes(because it would be toooooo easy to design it for easy replacement!), slipped the belt through, and then locktite plastic welded an abs backer. Good as new.
Had black and gray seat back covers. Chose black with gray accents. ....
And I was wrong about the third row not coming in leather. I have a set of nice soft grey leather in the truck! The new set I bought in black are plastic..doesn't really matter, they look nice....
Did some welding today, too. Carpet soaked. Repaired two good sized rust holes, one at bottom of sun roof drain channel, and one at bottom of door hinge panel. The first pic looks worse than it was, that is staining of the soundproofing and light surface rust....Also repaired the floor and door seal mount. Should last a while. The AC drain is unclogged and does not show any cracks... Hope this fixes it. Probably have same issue on other side..... Also have two new front door seals to go in...
Plasma cutter and mig welder make this a 3 hour job.....
And my disco loving girlfriend and I broke up today, which sucks.....doubt I will find another one like her.....she was my rust free best friend....
Nice work! I wish I had this skill but I am thankful I am in a place where I don’t need it! 😁
Got the HDC working now! ABS pump kicks in like it should. Was just an unused HI/LOW switch that needed some cycling......
Now to hook up steering wheel buttons to the new head unit.....there are 2 input wires. not sure if it reads one wire (+ and -), so giving me 4 control choices, or just one input (+ or -) per wire, giving me 2 choices. will have to read up on the LR wire dgm for radio.....
EDIT: NM, radio controls are just based on voltage divider set of resistors.....should be easy to program into head unit. The 2 LR wires out form the rotary coupler at steering wheel are Grey w/black and Grey w/red!
new used transfer case. All gears seem to be in great shape without chips or uneven wear. shifts high/low and lock/unlock without issue. Bearings smooth and without play. Input splines look great. brake pads barely worn. Just that it has black RTV on all flanges, which suggest a rebuild maybe, no gaskets....not sure if these came from factory with RTV in 04..... I will just replace the input shaft seal. Not going to mess with the others for now....
What a 360BABY day! ...Took off exhaust, unhooked T-case cables, wiring harness, removed brake drum and driveshafts, and removed the T-case. I used the harbor freight 1500 ATV jack. Worked well because it has a large lift surface area. With my 4" lift and big tires, jack could still reach the bottom of the T-case. here is post with jack pic recommend by soarvet https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...72/#post728280
But the real PITA was that I had ZERO room between rear cabin wall and the transmission output shaft and the T-case kept getting hung up on rear cover bolts. Just 1/2" more room and it would have dropped easily. Maybe I can pull the engine and trans forward a bit but they did not budge with all mount bolts loose. I could bend down the large lip (see red arrow pic) to give me 1/2". I might have to remove rear transmission mount and tilt the whole thing down a bit?.....
Anyone with reinstall tips for TIGHT space, let me know! THX
04-21-2020, 05:29 PM
