Awesome, thanks! I had to go back through my paperwork and I found the sheet that had it on it. Glad I waited before screwing something up!

 

Got it started for the first time 🎉 Only problem was getting it shut off without pulling the battery cable 😳

I'm assuming the problem is with the ignition wiring. I have the BP harness and ECU, if that helps. I have the wire labelled "switched ignition" from bundle 1 spliced with a 12v switched wire (pink from the BP harnesses fuse box), with the Rover C0634 pin 1 white wire. Not sure what I'm doing wrong...

* I removed the pink 12v wire and it starts and stops like normal now.

 

Check the pins on the pcm if you want to rule out a gm pcm harness issue. Maybe your harness has the constant pcm power and switched power mixed? You could also turn the key off and see if your O2 sensors are getting warm. I switched mine and wondered why when tightening my exhaust, the o2s were warm. They were running all the time and not ignition switched. I did my own harness and I don't know what a bp harness is so I can't help with that specifically.

My belt was almost impossible to get on if that helps assure you. I think another .25-.5" would have been perfect. Both tensioners were maxed out and I had to use a screwdriver to get the belt on the last pulley. After some miles it stretches and I can take it on and off by hand. My belt touches the hood insulation by the AC compressor so I might need a new belt sooner or later anyway. I like to get new belts on my cars and zip tie the old ones somewhere under the hood anyway.

 

Has 2002 Beast fixed his issues with the idle? I feel like I'm dealing with the same issues that he was. It'd be nice to know whether it was a tuning issue or a fuel pump issue. I will be getting the Disco back from the exhaust shop today, but was concerned about idling issues and difficulty starting. Before taking the truck in this morning to reattach the exhaust (without the exhaust or o2 sensors) the idle was rough and surging at times. I assumed this was due to the lack of the o2 sensors. Previously, I got codes for the idle air control valve (replaced), then map sensor (replaced), so assumed once the o2 sensor were installed the truck should start and run normally.

I went to pick it up today with the exhaust attached and o2 sensors plugged in and it was doing the same thing. I stumbled off the lift having to give it gas to prevent a stall.

Does the truck need to go through a relearning process first? I'm one day from my deadline and was really hoping to be fully done. I really hope this issue is a simple fix...
*The ecu was is tuned by BP to the parameters set in the manual (min 750 idle, ect.). Is a subsequent tune required for proper operation?

 

Might be worth cleaning your maf. There is a relearn for the tps that requires you unplug it, turn the key on, turn it off, and then plug it back in. That might help. If you search for pcmlogger and get an obdlink cable you can data log, and eventually change tune stuff with pcmhammer, but it's probably something silly like a maf or tps.

If you search for something like "maf issue LS" you'll find some good info. From memory you can unplug the maf and if it idles better it's the maf or the tune or maf calibration. I cleaned my maf with alcohol and a q tip.

 

First, unplug the battery for 15-30 minutes and let the adaptive values reset. Driving without O2 sensors may have setup some strange long-term/short-term adaptive values that the ECM is now using, which is causing issues. After you let all the values in the ECM reset, restart and see how it goes. Check for codes, if some come up, write down or take a picture of them, then clear them and see if they come back. It will throw some erroneous codes in the beginning.

From your description, it sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, so I'd hunt around and see if you have an air leak after the MAF. Intake, evap, brake booster line, throttle body, I'd start there.

From what I have heard, BP may not have the greatest base map, so you may need to have it tuned. The PSI base tune I think might be better 'out of the box'. Regardless, to get it to run good, you should have it tuned. I'd lean toward it not being fuel pump issues if that was fine before the swap, but it is possible.

 

It was a vacuum leak on the intake 😅 There were actually two cracked tabs at the top of the intake. After smoke testing and using brake cleaner to no avail, I accidently leaned on the tab while backing out of the engine bay in defeat. The engine started to stumble, so I found it. Thanks for the help and input! What a relief...

I'm gonna epoxy it for now and see how it goes. The dealership wanted $750 for a new plastic intake 😂 I'm not inclinded to throw $500 into a new aluminum one, but might get a cheap one from amazon (https://a.co/d/9XTEoKq).

* Runs and idles smoothly now! Only problem left is that it takes two cranks to start, every single time. I'll check fuel pressure over time to see if there's a slow leak somewhere. Any advice is welcome.

 

Glad to hear you found it. Probably was broken when then junkyard pulled the engine. I have heard about some people using a Dorman intake, which I think looks similar to the one you linked. Also you might be able to find another intake at a pull-a-part, but the epoxy sounds like a good, inexpensive fix for a little while.

 

Yeah I'd be looking into the dorman intake or run the epoxy. You could try turning the key on a couple times before cranking and seeing if it changes anything. Just a wild guess. I'd be checking plugs and such with a hard start issue too.

 

I've still been cranking twice before starting, but haven't checked the fuel pressure, or changed the intake yet. I'm just happy that it runs and drives at this point. ​It has new plugs, wires, all the sensors, so I assume that it's the intake, fuel pump, injectors, or o-rings. I cleaned each injector, so I'm doubting that it's them though.

She whistles as the revs increase (which will get annoying soon enough), so I assume there's still a vacuum leak, or there's internal damage to the intake (unless it's something else altogether [hopefully not the flywheel]). I'll check the fuel pressure when I swap over intakes. It has 183k miles on it, so it might make sense to change the fuel pump anyways? Otherwise, it's been running great!

My goal was to pick my kids up for school with it within the timeline I had with a loaner vehicle. Glad that I was able to get err done. I really appreciate the support. My kids were super pumped when I picked them up for school in the D2. My older boy (9) was pretty skeptical about it working again 😂 He always talks mess about it being old and how I should get rid of it. NEVER!!!! I've had a D2 for 20 years now, hopefully 20 more...
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