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Great to hear that you found the issue. Like I said, that wire is very susceptible to electrical interference. Since it only an issue when starting, that narrowed the possibilities.
In other news, I have completed the Compushift to Land Rover conversion module. I’ll setup another thread to discuss, but it lets you use the Compushift to control the transmission without losing the dash or shifter gear indication or causing the M and S error lights. It also allows the factory mode switch and indicator to work with the Compushift.
I retained the EVAP and Cats as they are required in Colorado. Cats are easy but EVAP will be a pain if your Rover uses the "positive pressure" pump system as it's literally the opposite of the system used by GM to test for system leaks (GM uses vacuum to test for leaks).
I ran a Summit radiator with dual electric fans and aluminum shroud. In Florida, I bet you will appreciate the dual fans. You can activate the fans in HP Tuners by changing to discrete fans (versus variable speed) and then removing the speed adjustment (this reduces fan speed above 45mph but, with discrete fans, it ends up turning them off instead of slowing them). There are also in-line thermostats you can get that trigger fans at a specific temperature.
I'm using HP Tuners to try and confirm how my electric fans are being instructed to shut off in various driving scenarios. Only settings I've found so far seem to be related to the fans turning off above a certain mph but only if the A/C is on. Am I misinterpreting this? If that is correct how would the GM ECU know when the Land Rover's A/C is on? To my knowledge, there's no signal between the LR and GM computers to provide that info.
My buddy just went in and enabled the primary and secondary fan and set the Temps for on and off for both. There is no interaction between the a/c and LS ecu and only the fan in front of my radiator kicks on when I run the a/c unless the the gm ecu turn the fans on due to engine temp. I'm running the 3500cfm flex a lite thin puller fan set. So far I've only had both kick on last summer up around Taylor Park after a long steep climb up to some pass at 11k feet. Very happy with it. I can get a printout from my hp tuner set up and post it if you need.
Last edited by Elderair; Dec 15, 2022 at 10:29 PM.
Reason: Spelling
So we would ditch the Rover transmission computer completely?
Yes. This would delete the Land Rover transmission computer completely. It is replaced with the Compushift and translator box. Compushift lets you change basically every aspect of the shifting with a phone app and/or display. You can change shift pressure / firmness, when it changes gear, max RPM of the gear change.
Originally Posted by Boostle
How's it perform? Looking forward to the thread.
I don’t have the Compushift installed in mine quite yet, just testing the conversion box. I now know the Compushift can be installed with the box and avoid losing any features. I have test driven a setup with a Compushift though, and it's nice.
With some time off this week I was able to work on a possible solution for my open air intake cone I had previously in the engine bay. In the middle of the summer IATs were pretty high in the 150+ degree range.
-Drilled a 4 inch hole in my passenger fender using a 4" duct mounting plate from Amazon as my template.
-Mounted the plate using 1/4-20 Rivnuts.
-Used a 4" accordion type couple to attach a universal enclosed KN filter assembly.
-Used a 4" 45° aluminum intake tube to build the rest with appropriate couplers to join everything.
*Note I am no longer running the Land Rover maf as I didn't notice a difference in shifting quality with it unplugged. I'll have to test it some more.
Obviously it's middle of winter now but I'll be sure to share the results come summer time.
Really like the way that turned out !! Nice job with the entire build. Much better than snaking around drivers side but I’ll have to get some courage for the hole cutting.
Really like the way that turned out !! Nice job with the entire build. Much better than snaking around drivers side but I’ll have to get some courage for the hole cutting.
Super simple. Get a hole saw made for metal and take it slow. You don't need rivnuts. You can just use nuts on the back side if you wish.
With some time off this week I was able to work on a possible solution for my open air intake cone I had previously in the engine bay. In the middle of the summer IATs were pretty high in the 150+ degree range.
-Drilled a 4 inch hole in my passenger fender using a 4" duct mounting plate from Amazon as my template.
-Mounted the plate using 1/4-20 Rivnuts.
-Used a 4" accordion type couple to attach a universal enclosed KN filter assembly.
-Used a 4" 45° aluminum intake tube to build the rest with appropriate couplers to join everything.
*Note I am no longer running the Land Rover maf as I didn't notice a difference in shifting quality with it unplugged. I'll have to test it some more.
Obviously it's middle of winter now but I'll be sure to share the results come summer time.
I like your intake as well. Looks very clean.
I will caution that you are in a bit of unknown territory with removing the Rover MAF. From how I understand the system works, torque calculations are reported to the transmission ECU for use in calculating shift pressure. Without the MAF, it estimates these figures from other inputs. These estimates are based on figures from the 4.0/4.6 and may not be as accurate for something larger like the 5.3. I don’t know what the long term effects of switching from the active MAF data to estimated data would be.
I think it would be better to have no MAF values at all than inaccurate MAF values. It would be a bad idea to, for instance, stick the Rover MAF in a larger housing without changing the associated ECU programming. This is all somewhat of a moot point though given that switching over to the Compushift eliminates the need for the Rover MAF for the transmission if you go that route. Still working on the writeup, but it is coming along nicely.
I did finish a writeup for an M&S lights solving guide that is a summary of all the info that has been gathered here and elsewhere on that topic. Hopefully this helps some people.
I will caution that you are in a bit of unknown territory with removing the Rover MAF. From how I understand the system works, torque calculations are reported to the transmission ECU for use in calculating shift pressure. Without the MAF, it estimates these figures from other inputs. These estimates are based on figures from the 4.0/4.6 and may not be as accurate for something larger like the 5.3. I don’t know what the long term effects of switching from the active MAF data to estimated data would be.
I think it would be better to have no MAF values at all than inaccurate MAF values. It would be a bad idea to, for instance, stick the Rover MAF in a larger housing without changing the associated ECU programming. This is all somewhat of a moot point though given that switching over to the Compushift eliminates the need for the Rover MAF for the transmission if you go that route. Still working on the writeup, but it is coming along nicely.
I did finish a writeup for an M&S lights solving guide that is a summary of all the info that has been gathered here and elsewhere on that topic. Hopefully this helps some people.
I was absolutely aware of all this due to our prior discussions but was willing to experiment at the cost of a HP22 trans. I had it unplugged for a week and was unable to notice a difference (I'm pretty sensitive to NVH changes). However, I do plan on going the compushift route. Just waiting for your guidance.
