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Discovery 2 LS Conversion

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  #1401  
Old 04-11-2023, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 04disco2va
Hi All,

I did the Y out of the main return instead of the 3/4 outlet from the water pump. Is that going to be a problem ?
I think it would probably be okay to run it that way as well. It may make bleeding the system more difficult when filling from the reservoir.
 
  #1402  
Old 04-11-2023, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CPTKAOS
Solenoid was toast. Now I’m free to choose the violence of 4low at freeway speeds. The best part was that I had just finished riveting the shifter plate back in place and installed the console about an hour before I determined the problem. So that was special.

Well damn! I hate that happened to you, but I am glad you at least found the culprit...
 
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  #1403  
Old 04-13-2023, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainAaron
I think it would probably be okay to run it that way as well. It may make bleeding the system more difficult when filling from the reservoir.
Thanks CaptainAaron. Wanted to make sure it wasn’t a bad thing. I’ll plan on making that right when I get the chance. Is there a better lower hose to use than the Gates 22639.
 
  #1404  
Old 04-16-2023, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by losinov
Awesome to hear! 100 miles on mine so far. Here's what I've still got on my to-do list...
  1. Retrofitting the existing airbox.
  2. Startup taking 2-4 seconds before engine fires. My camshaft sensor is throwing an error which affects firing order but it could also be fuel supply issues. Maybe throw in a new fuel pump.
  3. Vehicle speed sensor - not reading a vehicle speed on the GM ECM. Wiring appears to be spot on so it could be the conversion box that ACE provided. Might try swapping the VSS + and - wires.
  4. Emissions - just need to connect the purge valve. No idea where to start with the gas tank pressure wiring.
  5. Battery drain - Will check grounds and solder all my wiring.
  6. Rear main seal leak - specific issue with the LM4 aluminum block not with the swap.
  7. Idle issues with A/C on. Anyone else dealing with this?
  8. Whistling sound coming from holes in flywheel
#8 Thank you for this Lasinov I’ve been re-torquing the intake manifold. Looking at intake and throttle body. Couldn’t figure out what whistling sound was.
 
  #1405  
Old 04-17-2023, 03:33 PM
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For those folks NOT running the rover MAF, does your SPORT mode work? I have no warning lights on dash (M&S work with key on) and the MODE button does nothing. I have soldered the TPS related wires at the ECB (removed crimp connectors) with no change. Voltage is never less than 13.8
 
  #1406  
Old 04-17-2023, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CPTKAOS
For those folks NOT running the rover MAF, does your SPORT mode work? I have no warning lights on dash (M&S work with key on) and the MODE button does nothing. I have soldered the TPS related wires at the ECB (removed crimp connectors) with no change. Voltage is never less than 13.8
The sport and manual lights should work regardless if the MAF is plugged in. Since the M/S lights come on with key on, it sounds like your mode button might be broken or stuck.

If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
 
  #1407  
Old 04-17-2023, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainAaron
The sport and manual lights should work regardless if the MAF is plugged in. Since the M/S lights come on with key on, it sounds like your mode button might be broken or stuck.

If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
awesome that gives me something to try tomorrow, thank you sir!
 
  #1408  
Old 04-18-2023, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptainAaron
The sport and manual lights should work regardless if the MAF is plugged in. Since the M/S lights come on with key on, it sounds like your mode button might be broken or stuck.

If you put the truck in low range, and push the mode button, does the manual light work? If not, then it appears that the button is the issue.
Winner Winner chicken dinner! no M light in low when selecting the button also. Trying to source another shifter surround now. Thanks!!
 
  #1409  
Old 04-19-2023, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CPTKAOS
Winner Winner chicken dinner! no M light in low when selecting the button also. Trying to source another shifter surround now. Thanks!!
Brady’s had a shifter surround with the button for $25 clams. And it WORKS!! I also scored a rover throttle body to rob the cam off of. Got that mounted tonight. Need to move the throttle cable holder and see how it all works. Woot!
 
  #1410  
Old 04-21-2023, 07:33 AM
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SPort mode plus early trans computer is a major improvement. Highly recommend. I also determined the the ls throttle body cable cam is not even close to the right ratio for the pedal. The most I could get out of that combo was 56% throttle. Got a Rover throttle body, robbed one of the cable cams off of it, drilled and tapped the LS cam so I could bolt it on and it's perfect. 99% throttle achieved.. There was also a suggestion made here or maybe on the FB page about smoothing out the IAC port inside the throttle body to reduce the air noise coming through the intake. This isnt really necessary. You can just use the idle stop screw to crack the blade open more. The computer will adjust to its set RPM by using less bypass air (IAC) since it's getting more air with the blade cracked. Works like a charm.
 


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