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Discovery 2 LS Conversion

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  #961  
Old 09-24-2020, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2K
Bellhousing swapped! Only took 15 minutes. I did make a short clip explaining it but until that's uploaded on youtube etc........

I realize these instructions have now been explained 3 different ways by folks but I suppose what might be missed in one or another could help someone who's about to do this step until video footage is up.
Supplies
1. I cut sch40 pvc 1-1/4 pipe at 37-1/8th" in length, HOWEVER I WOULD CUT THIS SLIGHTLY LONGER AND SAND IT TO FIT, start with an extra 1/8" inch perhaps. I would have preferred sch80 for strength. This particular length snugly fits inside the seal of the shaft when carefully inserted and provides a sure and foolproof seating that can't be wiggled loose once wedged tight against the frame rail toward the front of the vehicle.

2. I purchased black annealed wire from Home Depot in the hardware isle. I would have preferred something a little tougher but this stuff is reasonable enough and up to the task.

3. In the same isle at Home Depot I purchased 5 nuts for 1/2" bolts to act as spacers. You'll just slide these on the bolts so that they're not too long since the bell-housing won't be there to take up a half inch of thread on the bolts.

Steps

1. I removed the outer most bolts, these were short bolts in length, I set them aside, they'll be the last thing you install when you're done, 15 minutes from now hopefully.
2. I removed all but 5 of the inner most bolts, which were longer. I left 5 that mimicked a car bolt pattern to balance the load. See the photo below with 5 bolts marked in red. (Ignore the fact that the photo shows the new bell-housing)
3. At this point in time, you can wedge in your 1-1/4" PVC pipe. You'll want to slightly tilt up the transmission to get the PVC pipe to insert without damaging the seal. It'll slide in an inch or so. When it does, wedge the pipe against the frame rail. The length of the pipe should allow for a snug fit.
4. You should have substantial pressure against the transmission at this point but nothing insane, more than you could hold with hand-strength though no doubt, I was able to push it into place by hand, no need for a hammer or anything. Now in my case, I used the wire I bought to anchor the pipe in three opposing directions, like a 3-blade airplane prop. The point is so that you can't accidentally bump the pipe loose from the frame rail which will likely happen when you drop the bell-housing on it etc. So tie this end of the pipe in place as I explained. There's holes in the frame rail that provide an upper left and up right direction and I used the tie rod below to act as a downward anchor point. Convenient! In my photo, I had cut the wire loose already, so ignore that fact ha!
5. By this time you could and probably should install the short bolts you took out in step one and install them into their original holes but from behind! These act as an anchor point to pull from and to tie back to the rear cross-member or similar. I SHOULD MENTION I SKIPPED THIS STEP ENTIRELY AS YOU SEE IN THE PHOTO because I felt I had quite a solid amount of pressure up against the pump by the pipe alone and I had used wire to be sure it wouldn't knock loose at the frame rail, it was quite secure. I don't think I'd recommend skipping this step generally but I did and I found it easy since my pipe was of perfect length and I felt confident in the pressure it was providing.
6. I removed the remaining bolts and carefully slid the the bell-housing down the pipe which was firmly and safely secured on both ends. I let the weight of the bell-housing rest on the axle and tie-rod, which worked well. Then just put in the bolts (the 5 longer ones marked in red in the photos below) with the 1/2" nuts acting as spacers and snug them down firmly because you'll need them to be holding the transmission together as you remove the pipe.
7. Cut the wire up front securing your pvc pipe, and remove the bell-housing hand it to your wife, in exchange for your beer.
8. Drink a little of that beer, not a lot, you still could screw this up.
9. Grab your NEW bell-housing provided in the kit. Note the orientation of the starter hole etc as shown in the photos below when installed and slide it onto the pipe. Again, reinsert the pipe as you did previously and anchor it back into place with wire so it can't be jostled.
10. Remove those 5 longer bolts with the 1/2" nuts acting as spacers.
11. Slide on the bell-housing, orient it correctly and begin installing the 5 bolts yet again but without the extra nuts since the new bell-housing will take up the space from here on. TIGHTEN THEM FIRST BY HAND IN A STAR PATTERN, THEN SNUG THEM IN A STAR PATTERN. We do not want to allow this paper gasket behind this whole mess to be seperated so we're providing constant and equal pressure as able!
12. Once you've got the 5 bolts in, you're safe and the stress is over! Re-install the rest of the long bolts around the shaft and then the shorter ones finally around the outside ring.
13. Finish that beer.

HERE IS THE BOLTS I LEFT FROM STEP 2





Hey Turbo...wondering if you could help me out...or anybody...lol..

I'm changing the bellhousing, got my 1-1/4 pipe...When I put it over the shaft into the pump, it goes in about a 1/4in and makes a bit of a click/snap...fits snuggly...but I'm not sure if its in far enough....I cant push it in any further...I'm no good with transmissions and don't know exactly what this pump seal looks like but I don't know if I'm hitting it...

Is the seal the first ring into the hole? Mine looks sort of a brown/copper color..

 

Last edited by 604x4BC; 09-24-2020 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Spelling
  #962  
Old 09-25-2020, 10:34 AM
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That click/snap is what you're looking for. If the pipe is wedged firmly between the two once you hear that click then you're good.
I HIGHLY recommend using the wire and bolt method on the back of the transmission so that you have some pressure pulling from the back in case the pipe slips out while you're putting on the new bellhousing.
Having those bolts and wire saved me during this step of the process.
 
  #963  
Old 09-26-2020, 08:03 AM
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^ What he said.

In that second photo, you can see the wire at the frame side of the pipe, it might look like a rats nest but fact is, that pipe was perfectly held there with great force so it couldn't slip out even if I tried, it was pulled in opposite directions and anchored tight.

Still I would say it's a good idea to wire/bolt the transmission for insurance because if that pipe was to be knocked out of place, you're likely screwed....
 
  #964  
Old 09-26-2020, 08:04 AM
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I wish I had snugged up that steering rack just sitting in plan sight before I put in my motor. Much better time to do it.
 
  #965  
Old 09-26-2020, 12:48 PM
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Thanks guys.. Much appreciated!
 
  #966  
Old 09-28-2020, 11:21 AM
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Continuing to drive the swap fairly short distances within my city but confidence is definitely building. I have discovered a reproducible issue that I'm curious if others are seeing as well.

If I crank on the engine for half a second too long the M and S lights are triggered and start blinking unless I exit the car, lock it and unlock it. Exiting the car and locking it before starting again is critical for the lights to go away.
This used to happen to me more frequently before I replaced my cam sensor but now that the engine fires instantly I'm just careful about how long I turn the key for. I have not check to see what code is triggered when this happens on the discovery's computer.

Anyone else able to reproduce this?
 
  #967  
Old 09-28-2020, 07:37 PM
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Yep, experienced this issue too.

Furthermore if you crank and it starts but instantly dies, it'll trigger the M&S and a code clear will be needed to fix it. The code is cam and or crank sensor in my situation, usually crank.
 
  #968  
Old 10-03-2020, 09:04 PM
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Another interesting find that I'm curious if others are seeing. The first few minutes of driving have a normal idle for me but I eventually run into an issue where the car begins to idle surge whenever I come to a stop.
It'll drop down to 500 and back up to 700 sometimes even as low as 300rpms and back up to 500. My guess is that this is happening once the fuel system switches to a closed loop but here's the kicker...
If I turn the car off and back on again the idle will sit right at 700 as it's programmed in the GM ECU. I am currently getting some errors related to my O2 sensors so I wonder if that might be related but just wanted to get the groups thoughts on this one...
 
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  #969  
Old 10-11-2020, 10:04 PM
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What RPM is everyone's swap switching gears at? I believe different gears might have different shift points but it seems like I'm consistently changing gears at 4.5k RPMs which feels early.
 
  #970  
Old 10-12-2020, 12:08 AM
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I want to do this.... I found the engine but want to know how much work it will be and maybe a total cost of the swap..... Is there anyone in California who has done this and what might have been better..........
 


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