I ordered it, will see how it goes.
What do you guys do for coolant fill and drain.. Where are you doing it from?
I tried to fill transmission fluid as well and more comes out than I can put in...I definitely lost a few cups out of the torque converter.. Any tips?
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See this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...change-100352/

 

I am struggling over here getting this thing to move.
I've got everything working from what I can tell so far, tachometer seems good...all I can see there though is the RPMs moving..no KM since its not rolling I guess.
My M&S lights are flashing, and when I shift into D the lights there are flashing too. N doesn't flash though...
No contact on the sensor nipple to the cogs. My feeler gauge wont fall out on its own when I put it in between to check...so I'm thinking I've got it at the right distance...

I've cleared my Trans codes a few times but they just come back once the engines running.

Before I start messing with the sensor again, any tips?
Edit: Im not sure what to do with the sensor at the moment since Im under the impression its where it's supposed to be....

 

What transmission codes are you getting? Particularly pay attention to position switch (battery or XYZ switch), low system voltage (battery), or engine speed (CKP sensor).

If the sensor is aligned, a couple other things can cause the M/S lights with the LS particularly:
- low battery voltage (make sure battery is in good condition, put a battery tender on it to top it off, make sure alternator is charging)
- low idle (idle gets to low for sensor to read right, slight misalignment can also cause)
- XYZ switch going out (with engine off and M/S lights off, see if gear position for every gear selection shown on screen)

 

@CaptainAaron
It turns out my battery was at 12.22V.
I read last night the Rovers Transmission computer will not work if under 12.4V. I had it on a charger today and put it back in at 12.8
Cleared my trans codes again and it may have worked...
But since doing that, now the engine is shutting down as soon as its started.
For the second it runs, the M&S lights aren't coming back..

Really weird because I've had it running at least 10 different times for a few minutes at a time.

Another thing I previously did not have hooked up was the negative battery cable bracket to the body ground plate behind the battery box.

So the only thing I've changed since yesterday is attaching that ground, and charging the battery up.

My scan tool (icarsoft 1930) is not giving me any codes. It lets me clear codes which removes the M&S lights, but when I try to read codes I get an error message;
CAN Message MD_IND Invalid (flag f_TL_MES) CAN Message WFPDK (DKI) invalid (ffh)
No idea what that all means...

What have I done?
Only thing i dont have plugged in right now is the GM MAF sensor because I dont have the intake sorted out yet...is that something that would cause this?
I wouldnt think so since It's been started several times without already...

 

Good to hear that it is back up at 12.8V. It probably was a low voltage that was throwing that trans computer into limp mode. The codes given by your iCarsoft are normal with the LS swap.

You need to plug in / plumb in the GM MAF. That can definitely cause your dying issue. Once you get that sorted, if it still tries to die don’t be afraid to give it a little gas to keep it running right after it starts. Hold it at a higher RPM for a little bit and then let off and see if it will idle on its own. LS computer might need some running time to adjust its fueling values.

 

Guys....She's fully running now!
Got her fired up again this morning & finally moved it from its hole its been parked in for the last 2 years now.

I really had to giv'er to get it to drive...my friend is telling me that is most likely because I have no back pressure without the exhaust...I hope that is true though..
No lights on the dash at all

Got to setup an appointment at the exhaust shop now

I want to thank every one that helped me with any question I had...I have self taught myself any mechanical knowledge I have, and have never swapped an engine before...I would not have attempted this if there wasn't such a great forum and community behind it!

THANK YOU ALL!!!!

 

Congrats! Getting the O2 sensors in the exhaust pipes should help your power significantly. The LS can run like garbage if the front O2 sensors aren’t getting a good read of the exhaust.

I'd also check the brakes and e-brake to make sure they aren’t sticking a bit after sitting for two years.

 

@ACEngineer I got your manual turned into a proper book 😜.. Will keep it in the truck forever like a factory manual.

@CaptainAaron You might be right about the brakes. Everytime I move it around it seems to have more pep.
I think It might just need to get the wheels turning for a bit

While I wait to get into the exhaust shop, just been cleaning things up. Made some mods to the air box.. Working on a better intake tube now..






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Couple of exciting developments here at ACE.

First, we are about to finish shipment of a bunch of kits — those that have waited, thank you for your patience! Supply chains are slow still, but we are moving them out steadily!



Second, for those of you wanting to run a GM alternator, we are working on the addition you are looking for. We are currently testing new accessory brackets for the GM 145A alternator found on 2003-2007 GM trucks and SUVs. These aren’t available yet, but they will be soon.
As always, thanks for the constant support!