2003 range rover engine problems, overheat, smoke out exhaust, etc.....
#11
#12
sounds like a cyclone separator gone bad along with all the oil hoses broken causing oil to spill out. do the job at least once a week. you might want to install a new valley pan for the coolant, go to a bmw dealership tell them you own a 4.4 M62 engine and you need the parts to do a valley pan job and trust me they will get everything you need to do the job right with no extra parts needed.
#14
well, its not that simple, i got the ****tiest end of the deal, or damn well close to it. its just, idk how this coudl have happened but its cracked on the block, well above the lower oil pan and i think its the trans-axle differential, but im not sure. i got a pic of it, and im looking through the rubber grommet on the ball joints, this is on the right side of the engine, there wasnt really any thing i could get a good pic of for a good reference point, but im sure some of you will know where its at. i didnt even think to look what line that is going into the block, but im sure its some type of oil line on the right side, but i gotta take my air filter off and some other stuff to get a better view. but heres the pic of i have, its cracked on the bottom part and the top.
#15
#16
#17
well, i wont be able to get more pics until i get to tear it apart a little, but i dont want to start removing anything until its back at my house in the driveway under my temp. garage tent so everythings there when i started, and no transfer of parts/bolts/nuts between start and finish.i can tell you its the piece that the lower oil pan is connected to, and the bottom of the engine block is connected to, or this is how it appears to look. im guessing its some sort of gearing for the awd.....am i right or not? some sort of a transfer case sort of thing, but i could be horribly wrong, the part is kind of the shape of a chubby L laying on its back, well has the general shape of that so you can get an idea which part of block it is.
the lower oil pan, thats connected to another piece of block, this is the piece that goes from the lower oil pan to the bottom of the engine block, between this piece and the engine block is another piece of block inbetween, which is connected to the bottom of the engine block with numerous hex bolts, this is where its broke. idk how it could have happened, unless some mount came loose and there was so much flex that it caused it to break(remeber the top and bottom is cracked right on the edge, so it appears that it flex donward causing the two cracks) im clueless and really really pissed off, it could be even more exspensive than a whole engine swap, and i already have that in the engine crane in the driveway, so im sure that'll be seeing some use soon, and these blocks are made of magnesium arent they? that means no hope of finding someone that can touch it with a small weld because that would hold with some gasket sealer....as a temporary fix atleast, it would be worth it if i have nothing to loose.....
By the way, that picture is taken from my head and the camera being located under the front right tire, and facing the block looking through the rubber grommets on the ball joints and stuff.....
the lower oil pan, thats connected to another piece of block, this is the piece that goes from the lower oil pan to the bottom of the engine block, between this piece and the engine block is another piece of block inbetween, which is connected to the bottom of the engine block with numerous hex bolts, this is where its broke. idk how it could have happened, unless some mount came loose and there was so much flex that it caused it to break(remeber the top and bottom is cracked right on the edge, so it appears that it flex donward causing the two cracks) im clueless and really really pissed off, it could be even more exspensive than a whole engine swap, and i already have that in the engine crane in the driveway, so im sure that'll be seeing some use soon, and these blocks are made of magnesium arent they? that means no hope of finding someone that can touch it with a small weld because that would hold with some gasket sealer....as a temporary fix atleast, it would be worth it if i have nothing to loose.....
By the way, that picture is taken from my head and the camera being located under the front right tire, and facing the block looking through the rubber grommets on the ball joints and stuff.....
Last edited by yukonridin23; 12-28-2009 at 04:42 AM.
#18
If you can get a hold of a rave manual or go into the dealer and ask for an exploded view of that section then they will tell you what it is. I do not have an 03 so I am not much help when talking about a block connected to another block. I bet that is still alluminum where it is cracked but by the time you took it off to clean it to weld you might as well replace it.
In your last post it sounds like you already have a replacement engine to put into the Rover is that right?
In your last post it sounds like you already have a replacement engine to put into the Rover is that right?
#19
well everyone, there wasnt much i could do, so i went to my last resort, EPOXY RESINS. jb-weld wouldnt have been very efficient, a hard to reach area and jb was too runny. i remeber repairing an oil crankcase on my yz250f with a product called quicksteel and it worked wonders, i thought what the hell, ill give it a shot. and what do you know, the trucks holding oil like a charm now, i let it set for a night before i tested it, and im very pleased and happy with my results......ill take pictures asap but i was planning on selling the truck soon, how much value do you think ill lose because im not gonna hide this from someone, i could never rip someone off like that?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
achapman
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
9
06-25-2013 04:40 PM
06Range
General Tech Help
12
05-08-2013 10:01 PM