Hey guys. I took apart my 4.0 and from what I found internally, it looks like it was in a slug bath. The slug was so bad it clogged up the oil galleys . Being this is all aluminum, what would you guy suggest I use to clean these parts. I want to try and make it look as close to brand new as I can. I ask for your help because I don't want to use the wrong chemicals and destroy the heads/block . I appreciate any help you have to offer. Thanks.

 

One shade tree method - stick with petroleum based fluids. Take off valve covers and oil pan. Don't allow pieces to flow toward oil galleys. Use pump garden sprayer with kero or diesel fuel and wash it down. Spray down the galleys. May have to use plastic brush and plastic scraper. Clean oil pickup, replace O-ring for it, dab of locktite on each bolt. If you have not pulled off the intake, you can spray "up" through the slots around cam shaft. Also, because of the sludge you will want to clean out the PCV system, which may have contributed to it. There is a hose on each valve cover. One goes to intake, one goes to throttle body, also clean whatever it connects to. The passenger side of NAS vehicles like a D1 have these oil seperators to clean with carb cleaner.

Oil flush with cheap oil change, change again in 500 miles. Go back with Rotella and jumbo filter (like the MANN/ Purolator in the tech section).

There are some very good solvent cleaners, like BG. Would take a long time and several gallons on a badly sludged engine. Keep in mind the sludge engine has starved oil in all kinds of places, so once cleaned, it may smoke, use oil, and geneally have less of a life than you would like. Un cleaned, it may die even sooner. Point is there is nothing that "re-grows" metal worn away by poor lubrication.

Of course if heads are going to machine shop they can tank those.

 

Or, if you are going to be having the heads tested and shaved, most machine shops have a hot dip tank that when done will look like new.
As for the engine, you should consider a good, engine flush that will remove all the internal sludge quickly like an ATF flush or one of the popular engine flushes like gunk engine flush.

 

Thanks guys. I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire engine. I want to get everything as clean as I can before it goes to the machinist so I can see if its worth machining. Saving money is what its all about. So you guys think deisel or kerosene will clean them up pretty good? Do you think that will break up some of the carbon to? Thanks again.....

 

If you already have the heads off use mineral spirits, soak the heads in it.
You can use a 5gal plastic bucket, set the head in there, fill just over half way with mineral spirits.
Let it soak overnight, flip it end for end and soak overnight to get the other side.
Use a stiff bristle brush to clean it.
Then do the other head.
Here is going to be the hard part, disposing of your used mineral spirits after you are done with it.
It is hazardous waste.
I honestly think you would be better off having a shop clean the heads for you.
This type and severity of sludge build up is common on these engines from lack of maintenance.

 

Don't waste your time.. If you're taking the heads and block in to have them done, They'll both get vatted and cleaned...You'll just be wasting money... Any rebuilding shop is going to be able to do a far better job of cleaning the pieces..

Turn the crank, New bearings, New cam and bearings..Set of lifters, Hone the sleeves. New rings, Top overhaul... New oil pump = New engine...

John

 

Here's an idea that goes along with the "tank" suggestions - take pix of the problem child and email or take them by the machine shop. Or just take one of the heads. One look is all they'll need to give you a fair estimate. By the way, look at their shop floor. Usually, you could eat off of it.